Thursday, September 30, 2004



Book Review of the Month
Chez é-sham...e-Zine® [Vol:6~Sept:04]

"For People Who Make Mistakes and Willing To Learn" ...

A la table du Grand Turc
Stéphane Yerasimos, illustrations by Belkis Taskeser


For five centuries, the secrets of the imperial cuisine of Ottoman Turkey escaped the curiosity of scholars. The reason ? They were hidden away un a neglected fifteenth-century manuscript whose real value had been underestimated. Careful reading of the document - wrongly believed to be a mere translation of the celebrated thirteenth-century Arab cookery manual Kitâb al-Tabkh by al-Baghdadi - brought to light as many as 82 recipes. The first part of the manuscript dœs in fact consist of a translation from Arabic to Turkish of the recipes of al-Baghdadi, but the ones from no. 74 onward are the personal contribution of the translator turned author, Mehmed bin Mahmoud of Azerbaijan. This part of the document thus bridges gaps in documents on the cooking of the Ottoman empire in its period of greatest splendor. The royal palace administrators would take note of all the ingredients that used in the dishes prepared in their kitchens, but failed to provide information cooking about procedures and methods. Furthermore, the first books of Ottoman recipes date from the late eighteenth century when tastes and eating habits were beginning to change following to the introduction of produce from the Americas -tomatoes, peppers, beans - and opening out to western gastronomic fashions.



It is not clickable.


A la table du Grand Turc


Stéphane Yerasimos, a historian, and Belkis Taskeser, a painter, put on their cook’s aprons to test 40 of the recipes from the manuscript: apples filled with meat and rice on a bed of raisins; egg pasta squares; mutton with prunes, honey, almonds, dried apricots, apples and pomegranate syrup; mutton with spinach, cumin seeds, coriander, mastic, pepper and cinnamon; leg of lamb with dates, almonds, red apples, saffron and rose water. But before actually getting down to work in the kitchen, the two had to polish off an enormous amount of archive research. First, it was necessary to verify the authenticity of the ‘Turkish’ recipes added at the end of the translation, comparing the names of the dishes and the ingredients cited with those mentioned in the accounting records of the kitchens of the Topkapi Palace, in which all the food purchased and consumed was recorded on a daily basis. Through these administrative documents and comparisons with recipes from the fifteenth and later centuries, Yerasimos was thus able to follow the evolution of tastes and eating habits of the sultans. He discovered, for example, that the flesh of the gazelle, the horse, the wild donkey-and the hare was progressively eliminated from menus, and that the choice of meat was reduced almost exclusively to mutton and chicken.
The book - which consists of an introduction about the history of Ottoman food and a selection of easy-to-reproduce recipes - is a treasure trove of curiosities. In Belkis Taskeser’s illustrations, redolent of Persian miniature painting and Balkan painting on glass, each image evokes a moment of quiet and ‘Oriental languor’.

Stéphane Yerasimos, a lecturer at the Paris-VIII University and author of numerous books on Turkey and the Ottoman Empire.

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Wednesday, September 29, 2004

Kuku

Kuku
Mixed Herbs Flat Omelet




Kuku (eggah in Arabic) is a versatile dish popular throughout the Middle East.In Iran, the fresh greenness of kukuye sabzi always appears on No Ruz, the New Year celebration falling on the vernal equinox.

Unlike omelettes,kuku feature the "filling" more than the eggs, and is cooked on both sides until brown and firm. Kuku can be made with potatoes, eggplants, or practically any other vegetable in season. Serve for lunch, or cut into small pieces for an appetizer.


Total time 1 hour

16 eggs
2 cups minced onion
2 tbsp. flour
2-1/2 tsp. salt
1-1/2 tsp. black pepper
1/2 tsp saffron, dissolved in 1 tbsp. water (optional)
1/2 tsp. turmeric
6 cups mixed fresh herbs (scallions, dill, mint, chives, coriander, parsley), chopped
1/2 cup butter

Garnish
1/2 cup finely chopped parsley


Preheat the oven to 350F, or cook the dish on the stovetop.

Beat the eggs until they are light and fluffy, then blend in the minced onion, flour, salt and pepper, saffron (if using), turmeric and herbs. In a large frying pan or shallow casserole dish, melt the butter and tilt the pan to distribute it evenly over the entire surface. Pour in the egg-herb mixture, cover, put in the oven and bake for 30 to 45 minutes, until the kuku is crispy on top and brown on the bottom. For stovetop cooking, cook over medium heat for 3 minutes, then turn the heat down to low and continue to cook for another 20 minutes, or until the eggs are well browned. Cut the kuku into segments, turn each segment over, and return to the heat for another 10 minutes, or until the other side has browned. Serve hot or at room temperature, garnished with chopped parsley.

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Kak al-Ramadan

Kak al-Ramadan
Ramadan Crescents





The croissant was invented in 1686 in honor of the Budapest bakers who sounded a midnight alarm warning their people of the arrival of Turkish armies in their city. The pastry, its shape the insignia of the Ottoman flag, became popular throughout Europe. The pastry probably journeyed to its source of wartime inspiration in the course of French-Ottoman diplomatic exchanges, to become more substantial and bread-like. The style of preparation is classically European; the aromatics and garnishes quintessentially Ottoman.

Total time: 3-3/4hours
Dough preparation: 3-1/2 hours
Baking time: 15 minutes

1-1/2 cups milk
2 tsp. dry baking yeast
1/4 cup plus 1 tbsp. sugar
4-1/2 cups all purpose flour
1-1/2 tsp. salt
3/4 tsp. cinnamon, or 2 tsp. rosewater
1 cup (2 sticks) chilled butter
3 beaten eggs

Glaze
2 beaten eggs
2 tbsp. milk

Topping
2 tbsp. poppy seeds, sesame seeds,
ground almonds or pistachios


Warm the milk to skin temperature, sprinkle the yeast over it, and set aside until the yeast begins to bubble. Combine the sugar, flour, salt and cinnamon (if desired). Cut 4 tbsp. of cold butter into small pieces and rub them into the dry ingredients until the whole mixture becomes crumbly. Pour in the yeast mixture and rosewater (if desired), stir well, and knead briefly to make a soft ball of dough. Cover the bowl with a clean, damp cloth and refrigerate for an hour or more.

Cut the remaining butter sticks in halves or thirds lengthwise, lay flat on a piece of wax paper, cover with another piece of wax paper, and roll out into a 6x8" rectangle. Refrigerate the butter until you are ready to work with the dough. Knead the dough for 5 minutes, then roll out onto a lightly floured surface into a 12x16" rectangle. Remove a layer of wax paper from the butter, lay the butter face down in the center of the dough, and remove the other layer of paper. Fold over the sides of the dough to completely enclose the butter. Roll this out into a long strip, then fold into three, as if folding a letter. Cover the dough with plastic and refrigerate for 15 minutes.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Lay it out lengthwise on the lightly floured surface and roll it out into another long strip. Turn the dough over several times during rolling so that each side gets equal treatment. Fold the dough in three again, cover with plastic and refrigerate for another 15 minutes. Repeat this rolling, folding and refrigerating process two more times, the last time refrigerating the dough for a full hour.

Cut the dough into eight pieces, then roll out each piece into an 8x8" square. Cut each square diagonally to form triangles. Roll up the triangle tightly, from the wide side up to the tip, and pinch the ends together lightly. Remove to a baking sheet, central tip down to prevent unrolling. Beat together 2 eggs and 2 tsp. milk, then brush some over the crescents.

Store the filled trays of crescents in the refrigerator for 1 hour. In the meantime, preheat the oven to 425F.

Treat the crescents to another brushing of the egg-milk glaze, then sprinkle with the chosen topping. Gently pull apart the ends of the crescents, but do not straighten them out.

Bake for 10-15 minutes, until the crescents turn golden. Cool on a wire rack before serving.

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Sunday, September 12, 2004

Cooking The Feng Shui Way



Chez é-sham...e-Zine® [Vol:5~Sept:04]

"For People Who Make Mistakes and Willing To Learn" ...


Feng shui(pronounced fung shway), developed in China some 4000 years ago, is very popular today. The placement of furniture, the colour of walls, the use of objects and foods are all supposed to affect our mood, well-being, health, productivity...even how pleasurable dining at our home is for friends and family!

Feng shui is an ancient art based on the theory of positive and negative energies (yin and yang). Its purpose is to help us live in harmony with our environment by creating a good flow of energy, or ch'i as it is known in Oriental cultures. The flow of ch'i in a house varies depending on the forms, colours and materials it encounters. Other decisive factors are the layout of rooms, location of doors and stairs and arrangement of furniture.

Some principles are self-evident. If you spend a lot of time in the kitchen, you want a lot of light, preferably sunlight for a homey feel throughout the day. You wouldn't put the stove (hot element) beside the fridge (cold element) or want the kitchen door to open directly onto the bedroom or living room. You're already practising feng shui.

But did you know that ch'i finds fluorescent lighting, plastic, vinyl and nylon coverings, small appliances like microwave ovens and toasters and wall-hung knives hostile? What can you do?

Decorate with lots of green plants; they protect against aggressive elements. Mirrors turn negativity away. Opt for halogen lamps where possible. Water (an aquarium for example) is a source of positive energy that provides balance in tense situations. Keep knives in a drawer and the toaster in the cupboard. Keep the kitchen clean and tidy at all times. Don't let food go bad or it will give off harmful ch'i. Food is affected by the energy around it. Cut food on a wooden counter. Don't eat while watching television or you will absorb the negativity of the news along with your meal. Focus on feng shui foods.

Feng Shui Foods

1.Cold-pressed, unsaturated vegetable oils like olive and sesame oils.

2.Lots of fruits and vegetables. Because they grow in the earth, root vegetables have stronger ch'i than other vegetables.

3.Feng shui recommends soy milk and coconut milk carried by a growing number of supermarkets.

4.Given meat's negative ch'i, feng shui favours fish and seafood as healthy, nutritious, low-fat sources of protein. Salmon is strongly recommended for people who feel sluggish.

5.Cereals, rice, barley and noodles are fibre-rich sources of hydrocarbons, protein, fat, vitamins and minerals, making them ideal feng shui foods.

The food we eat nourishes the body; the company we dine in nourishes the soul. The ambiance contributes as much as the dishes served to making a meal enjoyable. Many factors can affect the mood and behaviour of guests. For example, a transparent glass table can be distracting and make people uneasy, so a wood table is better. A round or oval table where people are closer and can see each other is preferable to a long rectangular one. According to feng shui, where you are seated has a big effect on the pleasure you take in the food, atmosphere and people around you. So you want to draw up a detailed seating plan based on your guests' personalities and the mood you want to set for the meal.

Feng Shui: Kitchen Tips

Feng shui masters spend their lives studying the discipline, aligning themselves with various approaches such as black hat sect, traditional, or intuitive feng shui. But you can instantly become a “kitchen master” with our quick and easy feng shui tips for your home:

1.Pay attention to your stove. Food nourishes you, affecting your ability to work and earn money, and the Ch’i of your cooking area will affect your meal. Keep the burners clean and use each one equally to illustrate the movement of good fortune in your life.

2.The cook’s back should never face the kitchen entrance. If the cook is unaware of who enters and exists, he or she could be startled, transferring negative Ch’i into the food. Place the cooktop on an island so that the cook can face the door. If the cook’s back must turn away from the entrance, hang a mirror on the backsplash or place a reflective object (like a tea kettle or a stainless steel utensil holder) on or beside the stove. This will allow the cook to remain aware of all activity.

3.The stove should not be placed under a window. Wind currents could pull the good Ch’i out of your food.



It is not clickable.


Dining the Feng Shui Way


4.Elements of fire and water clash, leading to bad Ch’i. Design your kitchen with distance between the two—your stove should not be adjacent to your refrigerator or sink. If such a placement is unavoidable, add a nourishing wood element—like a plant, butcher block, or wooden spoon—to turn the opposition into a cyclical relationship.

5.Plentiful food indicates prosperity. Hang pictures of fruits or vegetables on your kitchen’s walls to increase the sensation of abundance. Mirrors by your eating area, stove, or preparation will “double” your food as well, increasing wealth and health.

6.Clutter crowds your kitchen’s surfaces, often causing frustration. This inhibits the cook’s ability to prepare nourishing food. Keep all surfaces clear, storing all food and appliances not used on a daily basis out of sight.

7.Apply the same order to your pantry and cabinets. Broken items, empty boxes and containers, and unused food should be donated or discarded.

8.Keep in mind that Ch’i connects everything. Do you want to be linked to rotting fruit or unvalued knick-knacks? Discard, discard!

9.By the same token, surround yourself with meaningful things with positive Ch’i. Keep seashells gathered during a special family vacation on your windowsill, or display fresh flowers in an antique vase.

10.Keep trash and recycling centers out of sight. Garbage rarely signifies health and prosperity!

11.Don’t forget safety, an important component of feng shui. Knives should always be stored out of sight.

12.Sharp corners can be both unsafe and uncomfortable—how often have you banged your leg on a jutting table corner or squirmed in a Ch’i-depleting chair? Choose rounded corners over squared ones for tables, countertops, and chairs. Select wood over pointed glass tables. Hide and protect existing corners with plants and cushions.

13.When selecting your dining table, choose a softer, safer wood model over a pointed glass one. Oval and round tables are preferred over square and rectangular ones as they promote good Ch’i circulation.

14.Nourishment is as much a product of the cook as the food itself. The cook’s focus and spirits are transferred to the food. Make every effort to structure your kitchen (and your life!) in a way that facilitates a relaxed, leisurely, and meditative cooking process.

15.Remember—negative feelings and events tarnish the quality of your life. As a “feng shui rule of thumb,” surround yourself with whatever makes you comfortable and safe.

Source: The Western Guide to Feng Shui: Room By Room, by Terah Kathryn Collins

Seating Plan

In feng shui, the seating plan isn't dictated by the age, title or social standing of guests but by their personality... and the cardinal points. Try your hand at seating arrangements when entertaining friends, but also for family meals or romantic dinners.

1.Serious people should be seated facing west to help them relax.

2.A position facing south is good for a shy, withdrawn person. It will help them get closer to the others.

3.Someone who lacks self-confidence should face east.

4.Phlegmatic people should never be seated facing north, lest their coolness colour the ambiance.

5.A domineering, forceful guest should face north, which will have a calming affect.

6.The dominant seats are those facing the door or the longest part of the room because the people in them have a commanding view. Be careful who you seat there!

7.At family meals, parents should sit facing southeast (reinforcing wisdom and dignity) and northeast (reinforcing respect and care for others). If this isn't possible, northwest is next best (encouraging open-mindedness and communication).

8.Finally, avoid seating children with their back to a door or any other potential source of distraction. Why is obvious even if you know nothing of feng shui.

9.At a romantic dinner for two, facing west is best as this position is associated with pleasure.

10.Facing north, which corresponds to the night, will draw you closer together.

11.Facing south, will help you show your ardour, especially if you're shy and tongue-tied. Changing places throughout the meal is also a good idea.

12.Eating out of the same dish brings two people very close together. Prepare a slow-simmered dish where various flavours have commingled in the heat's long embrace. A fondue is the perfect solution if you don't have a lot of time to prepare the meal.

Colours Are Important

The colour of walls and objects is important. You can manage this energy as you wish in decorating your home. The better your understanding of colour's influence on your moods, emotions, health and success, the better you can make your life. Think of the atmosphere you want to create as you review the colours below.

1.Cream is associated with healing, health, serenity and well-being. In feng shui, cream is linked to sexual desire and stimulates sensuality.

2.White encourages drive and competitiveness.

3.Yellow speaks of comfort, warmth and sensual satisfaction, encourages pleasant conversation and is ideal for the eating area.

4.Orange is claimed to relieve fatigue and boost optimism. It's a vibrant colour that stimulates conversation.

5.Blue has a calming effect, reducing stress and producing serenity.

6.Green is associated with rebirth and creates a fresh, invigorating atmosphere, maybe because it reminds us of nature's greenery.

7.Red is the colour of luck, happiness and love. A little red in the decor encourages people to give voice to their ardour. But red should be used carefully -it stimulates aggressiveness as well as eloquence.

Feng shui helps us to create more beneficial surroundings. It encourages us to increase the energy in our homes using colours, materials, and the arrangement of furniture so that our lives become more harmonious. Feng shui is about being aware of the world around us and bringing balance to our lives.

Article from Metro.ca

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Friday, September 10, 2004

Zalubiyyah - Fritters in Syrup

The lover dissolves into the Beloved like milk in zalubiyyah.

Rumi

Zalubiyyah
Fritters in Syrup




This is universal festival food, a tasty idea from centuries past that has circulated around the world. It is often shared by pilgrims at Mina, the final stage of the hajj. A recipe for it appeared in Al-Baghdadi's 1223 cookbook. It is very much like the perennial County Fair attractions, fried dough and funnel cakes. At the 1904 St. Louis World's Fair, a Syrian vendor rescued his ice cream selling neighbor, fresh out of dishes, by rolling up a zalubbiyah and topping it with a scoop of ice cream to create the world's first ice cream cone. Rosewater gives zalubbiyah a Near Eastern taste, orange flower water a more North African one. In India, the fritters are known as jalebi.

Total time 3 hours
Batter & syrup preparation 30 minutes
Resting & cooling 2 hours
Frying time 30 minutes

Batter
1-3/4cups water or milk, approximately
2 tsp. yeast
1/2 cup yogurt
2-1/4 cups flour
Oil for frying

Syrup
2 cups sugar
1 tbsp. lemon juice
1-3/4cups water
2 tbsp. rose or orange flower water


Measure the water into a mixing bowl, sprinkle in the yeast and let it rest until bubbly. Add the yogurt, stir until dissolved, then add the flour and stir vigorously until thick and smooth. Cover the bowl with a towel and let the dough rest for at least 2 hours, stirring it down every half hour.

While the batter rests, prepare the syrup. Put the sugar, lemon juice and water into a saucepan, bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, until the syrup coats a cold metal spoon. Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the rosewater or orange flower water, and allow the syrup to cool.

Heat 2" of oil in a heavy saucepan. Using a wet spoon, pastry bag or narrow funnel (1/4 diameter tip), drizzle the batter into the oil in round dollops, spirals or figure eights. Do not crowd the pan. Fry gently for about a minute, turning them several times, until they are crisp and golden. Using a slotted spoon, remove the darkest zalubiyyah from the oil and drop it into the cold syrup; remove another and drop it into the syrup; remove the first one from the syrup and put it onto a baking sheet. Continue alternately transferring them from pan to syrup, from syrup to baking sheet, until the first batch is done; then begin the next batch until the batter is all gone.

Dust the zalubiyyah with confectioner's sugar. With sugar-dusted fingers, arrange them on platter and serve.

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Wednesday, September 08, 2004

Arabic Food and Arab Hospitality



Chez é-sham...e-Zine® [Vol:4~Sept:04]

"For People Who Make Mistakes and Willing To Learn" ...

Arabic Food and Arab Hospitality
by Eida Hasan


Arabic food and Arab hospitality can be somewhat of an overwhelming experience to first timers. My advice to anyone invited to a good old-fashioned Arabic meal is simply to wear loose fitting clothes. For, Arabic food is flavorful, diverse, and plentiful, but above all it will be offered to you relentlessly by your hosts. Even when there are no more buttons to unbutton, the offers to eat just a bit more keep coming. Regardless of how well or how little I knew my hosts, I have never been to an Arab home where I have not been kindly coerced into eating above and beyond what I am capable of eating. The very same occurred to guests at my own home when I was growing up. My mother followed the customs of her own mother - to feed your guests before you feed yourself, and to feed them well. My grandmother, I am told, had always stored food away that was to be offered to guests only. Yet this is not unique to my family. Great cooking, variety and abundance of food, and an insistence on good eating is found throughout the Arab world and in most Arab households. It is the Arab way of cooking and traditional hospitality.
Arab Hospitality Defined

For Arabs, hospitality lies at the heart of who they are. How well one treats his guests is a direct measurement of what kind of a person she or he is. Hospitality is among the most highly admired of virtues. Indeed, families judge themselves and each other according to the amount of generosity they bestow upon their guests when they entertain. Whether one's guests are relatives, friends, neighbors, or relative strangers, they are welcomed into the home and to the dinner table with much the same kindness and generosity. Arabic meals are more often a festive, warm and casual experience than they are formal. The guests are made to feel right at home, and to sample everything offered. In fact, most Arab hosts feel that they are failing in their role as host if their guests have not only tried all courses of the meal, but have also eaten more than is normally comfortable. The importance of hospitality to guests is something a visitor to an Arab home must understand. For the visitor who does not overeat may be seen by the host as a guest who is not showing proper appreciation. Again, this would cause the cook and/or host to feel that he or she is not fulfilling their duty. A meal is usually ended with the word sahtayn which means two healths to you, and this again emphasizes the importance of plentiful and healthy eating to the Arab people.



It is not clickable.


Veil - Modesty, Privacy & Resistance


Main Ingredients of Arabic Food

Arabic food has a lot of variety and its ingredients are far too many to name here. However, there are certain ingredients that make up many Arabic recipes. Wheat is the staple grain of Arabic cooking and it is used in bread, pastries, salads, and main dishes. Rice is another staple ingredient. In fact, rice is to the Arab what potato is to the Irishman as it is used often in Arabic recipes. It is most often cooked with vegetables, chicken, lamb or beef. Vegetables and beans are also found often in Arabic recipes. Compared to Western cooking, Arabic cooking contains a large variety of vegetables including eggplant, cauliflower, zucchini, and spinach. Beans such as garbanzo and fava beans are used often in dips such as hummus. Olive oil is a favorite as well. The basic dressing used for salads is olive oil, garlic and lemon. Olive oil is also used in bean, yogurt and vegetable sauces and dips. Lamb and mutton are the most common meats used throughout the Arab world. It is common on festive or religious occasions to serve dishes with lamb. For centuries, Arabs have served stuffed lamb on their most special occasions and to their most honored guests. In fact, T.E. Lawrence, known to most as Lawrence of Arabia, described in detail a feast of stuffed lamb in his memoirs Seven Pillars of Wisdom. Finally, most Arabic desserts, which are an important part of Arabic meals, consists of very thin pastries stuffed with dates or nuts, spices and butter and covered in a syrup of honey or sugar.

Popular Arabic Dishes

Arabic food, it seems, is only just becoming familiar to the Western world, particularly in the United States. Most cities are only recently seeing an increase in restaurants serving Arabic food. However, there are a few Arabic foods that most people have already tried or at least heard of. Hummus, a dip made of garbanzo beans, sesame seed paste, lemon garlic and sometimes olive oil, is already sold at most major deli and grocery stores. Arabic bread, known to most people as pita bread is eaten with most Arabic meals. Falafel, a veggie burger-like food made from chick peas, onion, potato and flour, among other ingredients, is also relatively well known to non-Arabs, as is shawirma which is also called gyros by the Greeks. Shawirma is a sandwich of rotisserie lamb or beef, wrapped in pita bread. Another popular Arabic recipe that can also be found in a deli is taboula which is a finely chopped salad of tomatoes, parsley, fresh mint, and crushed wheat. Stuffed grapevine leaves, called warak dawali, is another relatively well known Arabic food. The Greek version of this recipe is called dolmas. The Arabic recipe contains rice with beef or lamb, and lemon wrapped in grapevine leaves and cooked. Grapevine leaves used in this recipe can be found in speciality food stores. Unusual as this recipe may sound, this dish is especially flavorful. One last Arabic food that is popular to Arabs and non-Arabs alike is the pastry baklawa. No self-respecting host would forget to offer a tray of a variety of pastries to their guests with piping hot Arabic coffee or mint tea. Baklawa, the quintessential Arab pastry, is almost always among the pastries Arabs prefer. Baklawa is made from walnuts or pistachios, cinnamon, and orange blossom wrapped in a thin pastry shell and soaked in syrup. According to one cook book (From the Lands of Figs and Olives), it used to be said that in the Arab East, no young lady would make a good wife unless she could make baklawa dough. Today, that dough or pastry shell used in the recipe can be found in many grocery and speciality stores.

With the variety, robust flavor and exoticness of Arabic cooking, it is a shame that it is still relatively unknown to the majority of people. Good Arabic food, combined with traditional Arab hospitality, can be a wonderful dining experience.

(Some information was borrowed from the following three cook books: A Taste of Lebanon, by Mary Salloum; Lebanese Cuisine, by Madelain Farah; and From the Lands of Figs and Olives, by Habeeb Salloum and James Peters which I highly recommend.)

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Tuesday, September 07, 2004

Fava Beans Stew - Egyptian Ful Medames

There is little evidence to draw upon regarding Ancient Egyptian recipes, as it would appear that they did not consider it necessary to write them down. Scholars tend to rely on paintings that show feasting and celebratory scenes, such as those found in tombs.

Although the ancient people did not appear to use cookbooks, the ingredients needed to make most of the dishes are well known, many of which are still used in Egypt today.

For example Ful Medames is the national dish of Egypt and probably dates as far back as the Pharaonic periods. It would have commonly been eaten with bread, lentils, raw vegetables and eggs.

Egyptian Ful Medames

Total time 1-1/2 hours

2 cups dried fava or broad beans, soaked overnight
1/4 cup red lentils
1/2 tsp. salt
2 tbsp. finely chopped garlic
1/2 cup lemon juice
1 tsp. ground cumin
1/2 tsp. paprika
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup olive oil
1 tsp. allspice

Garnishes:
1 cup finely chopped parsley
1 cup finely chopped scallions
1 cup diced green and red peppers
6 hard boiled eggs, sliced
6 tomatoes, chopped


Drain the beans and put them in a large pot with the lentils. Cover with 3" of water, bring to a boil and simmer until the beans are tender, about 1-1/2 hours. Add salt after the first hour. When the beans are done, drain them and reserve 1 cup of the liquid containing the disintegrated red lentils. Put the beans in a serving bowl. Combine the garlic, lemon juice, cumin, paprika, salt, pepper, olive oil, reserved cooking liquid, and allspice, if desired. Add to the beans and mix well. Surround the serving bowl with garnishes on individual plates or bowls, and allow your guests to help themselves.

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Friday, September 03, 2004

Paluda - Persian Fruit Salad

Live as if you had never tasted this paluda,
As if you know nothing of this kitchen that you have seen,
For its paluda cannot help but intoxicate you,
And make you forget your humble sheepskin jacket
and your battered shoes.

Rumi

Paluda
Persian Fruit Salad


The Persian word paluda describes fruit salad, or sweet noodles soaked in honey or fruit syrup. To Mevlana, paluda symbolized spiritual sweetness. Simple and elegant, paluda often appears on the Iranian Friday afternoon dinner table, and can be made with whatever fruits are in season.

Total time 30 minutes

2 honeydew melons
2 cantaloupes
1/4 cup sugar
1 tsp. salt
8 peaches
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 cup rosewater


Halve the melons. Scoop the fibrous pulp and seeds into a sieve set over a large mixing bowl. Discard the seeds and fibers and reserve the melon juice. Using a melon baller, scoop out the melon flesh over the juice bowl, reserving any melon juice that drips out in the process. Put the melon balls into the bowl with the juice. Sprinkle in the sugar and salt and stir gently. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Blanch the peaches for 30 seconds, then remove from the pot and rinse with cold water. Peel and halve the peaches, slice them lengthwise, and put them into a second bowl with the lemon juice. Stir well to distribute the lemon juice evenly over the surface of each peach slice, to prevent discoloration.

Combine the melons and their juice, the peaches and lemon juice, and the rosewater. Toss gently, then transfer to a serving bowl. Chill for several hours before serving.

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Thursday, September 02, 2004

Cape Malay Rich Lamb & Tomato Bredie


Cape Malay Rich Lamb & Tomato Bredie


Stew - it's an old-fashioned term but the nostalgic thoughts of comforting flavours that it evokes make it a perennial winter favourite. In South Africa,this particular stew is an old Cape dish called a bredie. What gives a bredie its unique character is the long,slow simmering until the meat and vegetables melt together in the rich, full-bodied gravy.

In addition to the potatoes and onion there is always a dominant vegetable such as
cabbage, beans or pumpkin. To my mind the finest bredie is made with lavish quantities if sweet, ripe tomatoes and a touch of fragrant lemon peel. Serve it with a bowl of steaming rice to soak up the juices.


Rich Lamb & Tomato BredieIngredients
6 lamb shanks or 1-2 lamb chops per person
1-2 tablespoons flour
2 tbsp vegetable oil
2-3 bay leaves
2 onions, chopped
1 tsp sea salt
freshly milled pepper, to taste
6 white peppercorns
1 kg ripe tomatoes, skinned and chopped, or 2x 400 g tins peeled tomatoes in juice,
chopped
1 tbsp sugar
zest of 1/2 lemon
3 potatoes, peeled and quartered
(Serves 4-6)

CHECKLIST:Chopping board,deep bowl,cook's knife, wooden spoon, large ironstone casserole dish or heavy-based frypan with a tightly fitting lid, citrus zester.



Do use a heavy-based casserole or frying pan with a tightly fitting lid for slow gentle cooking.During the long, slow simmering, the lamb and vegetables should almost become one.Dust the lamb with flour before browning in heated oil.

STAGE 1


Lamb cuts suitable for stewing include shanks, neck chops and shoulder chops.


Dust lamb with flour and brown in heated oil.


STAGE 2


Use really
ripe, flavoursome tomatoes. Tinned tomatoes are a good option when you want to save time or when fresh tomatoes aren't at their best.


To peel fresh tomatoes, cut
a little cross with a sharp knife on the top of each one and immerse in boiling water for 10 seconds. Peel off skin with fingers.


Sprinkle the chopped, skinned tomatoes with sugar to heighten their flavour.Cut out stem, halve tomatoes, place face down and dice. Use a large board as you don't want to waste the juices.


STAGE 3


Add bay leaves and onions and gently cook until onions have softened.


Add salt and pepper,peppercorns,
tomatoes sprinkled with sugar and lemon zest. With the clean, direct and full
flavours of this stew you do not need to add many herbs and spices.  Cover and simmer for about 2 hours.


STAGE 4


Add bay leaves and chopped onions to the pan and saute gently until onions have softened.Add potatoes, cover and continue to cook for 30-40 minutes. Serve with piping hot steamed rice.


The stew can be made in advance but add the potatoes 30-40 minutes before serving.


For a delicious variation,use green beans instead of tomatoes. The basic recipe remains the same but omit the sugar.
In addition you will need 1 cup well-reduced meat stock, preferably home-made. (Tomatoes have their own juices; beans do not have as much.) The stock is added after the onions have softened, then 1 kg sliced green beans is stirred in.


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Cape Malay Sosatie

Cape Malay Sosatie




Total Preparation Time 4+ hours
Cooking time 20 minutes

1kg leg of Lambs, cut in 2.5cm cubes
1kg lean beef, cut in 2.5cm cubes (original recipe it was pork)
125gm mutton fat, cubed
75ml smooth apricot jam (6 tbsp)
25ml brown sugar (2 tbsp)
3 cloves garlic
12.5ml cornflour (1 tbsp)
2 bay leaves
25ml curry powder (2 tbsp)
25ml wine vinegar (2 tbsp)
12.5ml salt (1 tbsp)
5ml pepper (1 tsp)
3 onions, quatered
250ml dried apricots


Combine apricot jam, sugar, garlic, cornflour, bay leaves, curry power, vinegar, salt and pepper and add onion quarters. Cook until slightly thickened. Place lamb and beef cubes in mixture and marinate for 4 hours in a cool place, turning 2-3 time. Soak apricots in water until plump. Remove meat from marinade and thread onto skewers alternately with mutton fat, apricots and onion. Grill over coals until done.
Serve 6-8

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