Chez é-sham™

Musakhan

2005-08-28T00:22:00.000+08:00

Musakhan

A very famous Palestinian recipe, particularly in the villages, this meal is a symbol of self-sufficiency in rural Palestine. Its ingredients are available in any village house at minimum costs, making a delicious and healthy meal.

Ingredients (for two)

6 large onions
2 Naan Bread
250 ml of Frying oil
1 chicken
salt, pepper, and allspice

Method

Clean the chicken and cut it into 4 - 6 pieces. Cut one onion in small pieces. Fry it in one table spoon oil until golden. Add the chicken and turn it over in the pot adding salt, pepper, and allspice to taste**. Cover with water and cook until tender. Cut four onions into small-medium size pieces. Deep-fry the onions until golden. After the chicken is done, remove the pieces from the water and place in a grilling pan, adding one onion cut into small pieces with salt & pepper, then Grill in the oven.

To prepare the bread, spread the fried onions (and their oil) evenly onto the taboun bread. Place the chicken over the bread. Fried pine seeds are optional garnish. Serve hot with sour yoghurt and salad.

Taboun bread is the traditional Palestinian bread baked over hot stones. An adequate replacement is the Naan bread.

To give an interesting taste to the chicken, add cardamom and bay leaves to the water.

Bika Ambon

2004-12-21T13:09:00.000+08:00

Bika Ambon
Category: Cakes

Ingredients
Mixture I

200 ml cold water
1tablespoon instant yeast
3 Tablespoons white sugar
200 g glutinous rice flour (ketan)

Mixture II

600 ml Santan (coconut milk), boiled with 10 pieces of jeruk purut (kaffir lime leaves), boil until oily. Cool
20 egg yolks
10 egg whites
800 g white sugar
400 g glutinous rice flour (ketan)
A little vegetable oil

Prepare Mixture I -
1. Take 5o ml water, add the yeast and i tablespoon of sugar. Mix in 50 g of the glutinous rice flour, stir and leave to stand until foamy bubbles form on the surface
2. Add another 50 ml water i tablespoon of sugar and 50g of the glutinous rice flour, mix thoroughly and leave to stand for approximately 30-45 minutes
3. Repeat the last step another two times

Prepare Mixture II -

Beat the egg yolks and egg whites for 10 minutes until thick and fluffy.
Add the glutinous rice flour and Mixture I
Mix thoroughly then add the santan (coconut milk)
Leave in a warm place to rise for about 3 1/2 hours until foamy
Place sand on an oven tray and heat in the oven at a 180 ° Celsius together with
a springform which has been greased
When the springform is heated take out of the oven and pour the cake mixture into
the baking form
Place into the oven leaving the oven door ajar
When little holes form on top of the cake place a lid on top of the springform
When the cake is almost done turn on the top grill and take off the lid. Leaving
the door ajar grill the cake until a golden brown on top
Bake for another 20 minutes with the door closed.

Lemongrass Jello with Mixed Assorted Fruits and Lime Sorbet

2004-12-04T01:44:00.000+08:00

Chez é-sham...e-Zine® [Vol:9~Dec:04]

"For People Who Make Mistakes and Willing To Learn" ...

Ingredients

Lemongrass Jello
1 ltr : water
180g : sugar
40g : screwpine ( pandan) leaves
50g : lemongrass
3 : pomelo leaves
7g : gelatine powder (mixed with 25g sugar)
5g : kiwi fruit, peeled and diced
5g : strawberries, hulled and diced
5g : mint leaves
5g : barley
5g : dried sea olive jelly
5g : black grass jelly
1 scoop : lime sorbet

Garnish
5g : crushed peanuts
Black sesame seeds
Mint leaves

Preparation

Method

1. Prepare lemongrass jello. Place water, sugar, screwpine leaves, lemongrass and pomelo leaves in a saucepan and bring to the boil for 30 minutes. Strain and mix in gelatine powder. Leave at room temperature to set then chill in the refrigerator.

2. Combine lemongrass jello with kiwi fruit, strawberry, mint leaves, barley, dried sea olive jelly and black grass jelly and spoon into a tall glass and top with a scoop of lime sorbet.

3. Garnish with crushed peanuts, black sesame seeds and mint leaves.

2004-11-08T09:04:00.000+08:00

Chez é-sham...e-Zine® [Vol:8~Nov:04]

"For People Who Make Mistakes and Willing To Learn" ...

Purveyor of fine baklava

IF you pass quickly by Lavand, an elegant little corner shop on the ground floor of Bangsar Village, Kuala Lumpur, you might mistake it for the storefront of a chocolatier. But if you stop and look, you will discover within its sparkling glass cases tray upon tray of the delectable Mediterranean dessert known as baklava.

Lavand is the purveyor of fine baklava, as far removed from the soggy, cloying dumplings that are sometimes sold as baklava as a Rolls Royce is from a – well, I will stop there, lest I offend some car maker or owner, but you get the idea.

As the first baklava shop in Malaysia, Lavand is not only breaking new ground, but also setting a standard that can best be described as golden – like the honey that sweetens this Arabian Nights fantasy of a pastry.

The shop imports premium baklava from Lebanon. Because they buy from makers who use the finest ingredients, Lavand’s baklava is remarkably fresh and long lasting. The filo crusts are crispy and delicate, the nutty fillings are aromatic with spices and rose water.

Sheerin Zalani, the owner of Lavand.
The woman behind the shop, Sheerin Zalani, is determined to match the quality of the product with the highest level of customer service.

“I worked very hard to train the staff myself,” she says. “I wanted them to be knowledgeable about the product. And we absolutely guarantee our baklava. If you keep it for three months or whatever, and it loses its flavour, I’ll take it back.”

According to Sheerin, good baklava can be kept for six to eight months in the refrigerator without losing its taste.

The second partner in the trio that established Lavand is Sheerin’s husband, Fazel, whom she credits with the original idea for the shop.

He often went to Lebanon, where he has family, and brought back baklava for the people in his office. They loved it so much that he eventually asked Sheerin: “Why don’t you open a baklava shop?”

Baklava changed their lives in another way, as well. Back when Fazel was courting Sheerin, he didn’t feel that his prospective father-in-law was exactly warming to him.

At Fazel’s urging, Sheerin tells the story: “One day, he showed up with a gift of baklava for my father, and that did it! He was always welcome at our house after that.”

Baklava is not merely a delicious, father-in-law-melting confection, but also an intensely romantic one, with an ancient history and a reputation for inspiring – um, warm feelings, shall we say? It was first recorded some 2,700 years ago in Assyria, where the basic pastry-with-walnuts-and-honey (both of the latter are reputed to be aphrodisiacs) was born. It comes to KL by way of Greece, where it acquired its leaf-thin filo pastry; Armenia, which added cinnamon (said to stimulate female desire) and cloves (ditto for both genders) to the mix; and Arabia, where it was blessed with rose water and cardamom (said to arouse male passion).

Sheerin Zalani

The name of the shop, Lavand, reflects baklava’s seductiveness: it means “Desire” in Persian, the language of Sheerin’s Iranian mother.

Even if you don’t believe in baklava’s powers as an aphrodisiac, you will love the subtle blend of spices and textures that differentiates the various types. Lavand has chosen to import products which are not as intensely sweet as some, in deference to Malaysian taste.

Speaking of sweetness, Sheerin’s name is Persian for “sweet”, which seems eerily like precognition on the part of her parents. She has put her heart and soul into making Lavand a success. She is the creative motor behind the business, generating ideas, designs and plans at a breathtaking rate. She sometimes has to rely on her husband, though, to lend a certain gravitas to the business side.

It was not all sweet in the beginning, though. Perhaps the most discouraging aspect of starting the business was finding a space for it.

A selection of the wide variety of baklava available at Lavand.
“Everybody said they wanted something new and different,” Sheerin recalls, “but when it came down to it, they ignored us in favour of yet another chain store.”

By the time Bangsar Village gave them a chance, sales were practically built-in, thanks to Sheerin and Co’s creative promotional efforts beforehand. With their core base of ardent customers, including celebrities, hotels and corporations, the response has sometimes gotten ahead of Sheerin’s ability to meet demand. She vividly remembers one such incident:

“We had only been open a short time when a well-known actress came in and asked for a box of baklava. I showed her our smallest box. Bigger, she said. I showed her the next size up – bigger, she said again. Finally, I asked, how big a box do you want?”

Sheerin holds up her hands about a metre apart, to show me the size of the box the woman wanted.

“I asked how she could even carry a box that big but she said, ‘Never mind, it’s for the Queen!’” Sheerin shakes her head in disbelief.

“I tried, I really tried, but I just couldn’t arrange for a big, beautiful box suitable for royalty on such short notice. When I finally did get one ready, it was too late ... she had found a different gift.”

That won’t happen again. Lavand is preparing to import a range of beautiful silver, porcelain and bronze dishes suitable for presentation, and not just to royalty.

Two holidays when Sheerin believes baklava will have a special impact are Ramadan, with its tradition of eating sweets to break the daily fast, and Valentine’s Day.

In fact, she has invented a new type of baklava that could be the perfect Valentine’s Day gift. Since baklava helped bring Sheerin and Fazel together, she has married the chewy richness of baklava with the smooth delight of chocolate to create “choclava”. It is a made-in-heaven match and, as far as she knows, original to the shop.

Indeed! Will this be the first serious addition to the baklava tradition from outside its historic Mediterranean base? That certainly ought to put Malaysia, and Lavand, in the confectionary history books!

Types of Baklava at Lavand

Pine Nut Baklava: Traditional, pine nuts sandwiched between filo pastry.

Pistachio Baklava: The original. Chopped pistachios in filo.

Diamond Baklava: Either of the above, cut into a diamond shape.

Pistachio Kolwishkor: Chopped pistachios in filo sweeter than the above.

Pine Kolwishkor: Also sweeter, with pine nuts.

Pistachio Assabeh: Special blend of ground pistachios and spices in a baked filo roll.

Basbousa: Knafe dough with crushed almonds and ghee.

Pistachio Bourma: Shredded filo, stuffed with pistachios, baked and drizzled with honey.

Pine Nut Bourma: Shredded filo, filled with pine nuts and spices and baked.

White Noboulseah: Pistachios and honey sandwiched in filo and flavoured with rose water.

Pistachio Boaj: Bird’s nest filo stuffed with pistachios and sweetened with honey.

Choclava: Lavand’s original creation, pistachio assabeh dipped in chocolate.

Lavand The Baklava Shop is located at Lot 3GB, Bangsar Village, Jalan Telawi 1, KL. Call 03-2283 3108 for delivery in the Bangsar area. (RM10 delivery fee, no minimum order.)

*Article from The Star Newspaper

The Gastronomic Pleasures Of İnstanbul

2004-10-05T11:39:00.000+08:00

Chez é-sham...e-Zine® [Vol:7~Oct:04]

"For People Who Make Mistakes and Willing To Learn" ...

The Gastronomic Pleasures Of İnstanbul
by Tuğrul Şavkay (Turkey's Foremost Culinary Critic)

One last dinner and one last drink in İstanbul is a most plausible last wish for anyone who is a real gourmet. One cannot help believe that one reason for the recurrent use of the Arabic word "keyf" (defined as health, fitness, satisfaction, pleasure, light-heartedness, joy, enthu-siasm, ardour, etc., in dic-tionaries) could be that taking delight in eating and drinking has only recently become a national pastime for Turks.

One comes across convincing statements on the eating habits on Turks, which more or less took on the quality of fulfiling an obligation, such as depicted in the memoirs of a Spanish prisoner captured by Turks in 1552 who later dwelled in Admiral Sinan Pasha's palace during the era of Süleyman the Magnificent. The following sentence, written during the most exuberant days of the empire is especially striking: "They aren't excessively fond of eating. In my opinion, they eat to live, not because they take any delight in eating."

İstanbul is one of the few enchanting cities in the world which has finally managed to cast its spell over a nation that had preserved its modesty even in the most glorious of days. Byzantine, in full justification of the attributes the French have bestowed upon it, has succeeded in transmitting its lifestyle to the present-day Turks. This verifies the Roman saying that the conquerors will ultimately be forced to yield.

It would be totally unfair to presume that tavuk göğsü (pudding with chicken breast), which is still uncannily delicious in spite of the fact that most pudding shops in İstanbul now sneak in starch, is the only remaining splendor of the Roman Empire. Rome, for example, is still alive in İstanbul in the varieties and flavors of its breads. Widely recognised names such as Süheyl Ünver MD, who has a special interest in gastronomy, and the French historian Andre Cloit, a specialist on the era of Mehmet II the Conqueror, write that there are very few dishes Turks have —anthropologically— "borrowed" from the Byzantine and Roman cuisine. In my opinion this is essentially unfair. The fact is that Turks, from the time of their arrival in Anatolia, assimilated into the Roman culture—within the confines of Islam. For Turks have never been a conceited and obstinate nation, in spite of the important positions they presumed throughout history. They are imbued with the virtue of adapting to the circumstances in such a way as not to deprive themselves of the already existing charms.

Thus, Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror took great care to make his city appear as a meeting place of several civilisations, and tried to assemble in İstanbul the most distinguished citizens from across the Empire, during the city's resettlement after its conquest. (This cosmopolitan atmos-phere survived for a while longer, fighting against all odds, even following the National Liberation War in early 1920s.) This cosmopolitan character plays a leading role among the many other factors that render İstanbul's cuisine unmatched. Furthermore, this is not just an eclectic diversity as seen in certain European and American cuisine. It has always been difficult to pinpoint where Armenian cuisine starts and where it runs into Greek cuisine. Greek and Turkish cuisine have always been intricately interwoven, not forgetting the close relationship Arabic cuisine has the three mentioned above. The Turkish kitchen is one of the few areas where it is nationalism finds it hard to infiltrate. The imperial heritage constitutes an umbrella covering all, from the Albanian to the Circassian, from the Tatar to the Arab. It is usual to encounter in an İstanbul restaurant Tatar pastries, Albanian fried liver, Circassian chicken with walnuts and Damascene desserts.

Eating in İstanbul

The very same menu may include Beef Stroganoff or Chicken Kiev. The Empire never extended its borders as far as central Russia, but İstanbul was the city that hosted the Russians while they were escaping from the Red Army during the October Revolution. These Russians fleeing Trotsky's comrades, were the first to introduce western style restaurants in İstanbul, which a few years after the revolution also hosted Trotsky, the former com-mander in chief of the Red Army.
Unfortunately books about the old days are rare. But from those that exist, we can see that meyhanes have remained the essential domains for dining and wining for years-on-end. In spite of the strict Islamic tenets, wine reigned in İstanbul where the Ottoman sultans and the head of the religious estab-lishment (eyhülislam) resided. Şeyhülislam Yahya Efendi, one of the brightest clerics of the Empire, wrote the following meaningful verses: "Let hypocrites carry on with their hypocrisy in the mosque / Let those with no hypocrisy and no lies come to the meyhanes."

It would be a great insult to rakı, considered to be the Turks national drink, to say that drinking is only tantamount to wine in Turkey. In fact, rakı is a dis-tilled drink flavored with the aroma of anise, which exists in various varieties all over the Mediterranean. Greek "ouzo", Lebanese "arak" and French "pastis" are all a very similar drink. The Turkish sensitiv-ity on this issue lies within the etiquette of drinking rakı. This etiquette can only be observed at a rakı table fully laden with mezes. And İstanbul meyhane keepers prepare the best mezes. Among the mezes are dishes, referred to as "cuisiné" by the French, that become magnificent and delectable after meticulous prepa-ration, such as stuffed mussels, mussels or fried calamari with tarator (bread crumbs with garlic and walnut) sauce, Albanian (fried diced) liver, very thin rolled pastries seasoned with fresh herbs; as well as those that are not part of the "cuisiné", such as chunks of hard, full-fat white cheese, a sweetly scented slice of melon, Çengelköy cucumbers with drops of morning dew when cut in season, or roe in wax "putargo". Turks welcome all pleasant and delicious dishes on their meze tables without creating any uproar in the matter. There is no end to the list of good meze shops in İstanbul, which forces me to implore that my fol-lowing statement should not be taken further than just being an example in this context. Swissotel's Şark Sofrası, or the small meyhanes on Nevizade Street located behind Çiçek Pasajı, serve some of the best mezes around.

Fish and seafood dishes rank just as high as the famed İstanbul mezes. Fernand Braudel, a French historian and an expert on the Mediterranean, places the Bosphorus on the top of his list along with the few Mediterranean locations that serve fish worth tasting. Any restaurant by the Bosphorus, be it luxurious or humble, will serve you the best and the fresh-est fish in season in İstanbul. I must mention here that those who seek fish in fancy sauces will be disappointed. For Turks like to eat fish in the most simple form possible. Even though this is not taken as far as preparing "saşimi", they eat their fish grilled or fried in olive oil, whole if its size permits or in big chunks. Crisp fresh salad served alongside, followed by fruit, constitutes an ordinary, dogmatic menu. Rakı, which used to be an aperitif taken only with mezes during the last century, is now a customary drink of fish restaurants.

It is quite ordinary for a foreigner to order wine to accompany a palatable fish dish. İstanbul-lites with refined tastes do the same. Wine making is one of the sectors receiving the great-est state protection. The progress achieved is not proportional to the amount of state support received, yet there are still a great variety of wines that are quite pleasing to the palate. Concluding an evening out in İstanbul without tasting some of these would be a tragic loss in life. It also seems to be an appropriate place to mention, now that we have embarked upon it, that Turkish coffee, lately facing a challenge from the "espresso", is a "molto vivace" finale to end a meal.

In returning to the prelude... As a consequence of its cosmopolitan nature, İstanbul hosts a variety of restaurants. While Rejans is fighting for its survival, there are still some other more modest Russian restaurants. There are the new excellent Italian restau-rants such as Spasso at Hyatt Regency, Monteverdi at the Conrad Hotel, and Villa Medici in Arnavutköy. There are the undeservingly over-priced Chinese restaurants at the Hilton and Polat Renaissance Hotels, in contrast to the marvellous Chinese restaurants run by the Chinese in the Taksim region. German restau-rants, in the meantime, became a thing of the past 20-30 years ago, and none have replaced them until recently.

tavuk göğsü

The Bierstube at the Polat Renaissance Hotel continues to excel and is perhaps the sole and the best Austrian locale of the city. There also is an Austrian-Hungarian restaurant which resumed service in Gümüşsuyu only just a few years ago.
However, hidden behind a curtain, are still quite a few excellent restaurants waiting to be discovered in their modest spots. For example, there is a charm-ing Bosnian restaurant in the Kuruçeşme vicinity on the Bosphorus, where immigrants of this distressed country offer their authentic cuisine to and to the visiting guests of the city.

Another factor that con-tributes to the cosmopolitan nature of İstanbul is the culinary variety brought by the immigra-tion from all parts of Anatolia. This local Anatolian cuisine, which used to be confined to homes, has recently started to be commercialised by daring entrepreneurs. Pafuli in Kuruçeşme is known for its Eastern Black Sea cuisine and dishes of the Laz peoples. Arif Develi pre-pares the most sumptuous Antep kebabs at his modest locale in Samatya. His compatriot Nadir Güllüoğlu bakes and sells a wide variety of Antep baklavas and pastries. You can try the best herbage (vegetation) and olive oil dishes of the Aegean region at Ece's.
To sample excellent examples of Turkish cuisine that are now identified with İstanbul, you must visit a good "local tradesmen's restaurant" such as Hacı Salih in Beyoğlu and Kanaat in Üsküdar. Hard to prepare dishes that require a lot of devotion can still be found at these locales. For the modern, more western "haute cuisiné" versions of these dishes, it is necessary to stop by Tuğra Restau-rant managed by Vedat Başaran at Çırağan Palace Kempinski.

It is not possible to offer a complete description of the food and drink varieties available in İstanbul, for its pebble, as a poet says, he would forfeit the whole of Persia. As I am writing down these lines in my office off the main street in Beyoğlu, a sound of violins and darbuka accompanied by rhythmical hand-clapping flows in through my open windows.It is late at night and I am impatient to go to a restaurant in İstanbul, filled with a sensation accentuated by having skipped lunch. I will start feeling guilty if I spend a little more time here and miss a charming, pleasurable dinner. Be true to yourself and never do anything that you'll regret in İstanbul.

2004-09-30T10:29:00.000+08:00

Book Review of the Month

Chez é-sham...e-Zine® [Vol:6~Sept:04]

"For People Who Make Mistakes and Willing To Learn" ...

A la table du Grand Turc
Stéphane Yerasimos, illustrations by Belkis Taskeser

For five centuries, the secrets of the imperial cuisine of Ottoman Turkey escaped the curiosity of scholars. The reason ? They were hidden away un a neglected fifteenth-century manuscript whose real value had been underestimated. Careful reading of the document - wrongly believed to be a mere translation of the celebrated thirteenth-century Arab cookery manual Kitâb al-Tabkh by al-Baghdadi - brought to light as many as 82 recipes. The first part of the manuscript dœs in fact consist of a translation from Arabic to Turkish of the recipes of al-Baghdadi, but the ones from no. 74 onward are the personal contribution of the translator turned author, Mehmed bin Mahmoud of Azerbaijan. This part of the document thus bridges gaps in documents on the cooking of the Ottoman empire in its period of greatest splendor. The royal palace administrators would take note of all the ingredients that used in the dishes prepared in their kitchens, but failed to provide information cooking about procedures and methods. Furthermore, the first books of Ottoman recipes date from the late eighteenth century when tastes and eating habits were beginning to change following to the introduction of produce from the Americas -tomatoes, peppers, beans - and opening out to western gastronomic fashions.

A la table du Grand Turc

Stéphane Yerasimos, a historian, and Belkis Taskeser, a painter, put on their cook’s aprons to test 40 of the recipes from the manuscript: apples filled with meat and rice on a bed of raisins; egg pasta squares; mutton with prunes, honey, almonds, dried apricots, apples and pomegranate syrup; mutton with spinach, cumin seeds, coriander, mastic, pepper and cinnamon; leg of lamb with dates, almonds, red apples, saffron and rose water. But before actually getting down to work in the kitchen, the two had to polish off an enormous amount of archive research. First, it was necessary to verify the authenticity of the ‘Turkish’ recipes added at the end of the translation, comparing the names of the dishes and the ingredients cited with those mentioned in the accounting records of the kitchens of the Topkapi Palace, in which all the food purchased and consumed was recorded on a daily basis. Through these administrative documents and comparisons with recipes from the fifteenth and later centuries, Yerasimos was thus able to follow the evolution of tastes and eating habits of the sultans. He discovered, for example, that the flesh of the gazelle, the horse, the wild donkey-and the hare was progressively eliminated from menus, and that the choice of meat was reduced almost exclusively to mutton and chicken.
The book - which consists of an introduction about the history of Ottoman food and a selection of easy-to-reproduce recipes - is a treasure trove of curiosities. In Belkis Taskeser’s illustrations, redolent of Persian miniature painting and Balkan painting on glass, each image evokes a moment of quiet and ‘Oriental languor’.

Stéphane Yerasimos, a lecturer at the Paris-VIII University and author of numerous books on Turkey and the Ottoman Empire.

Kuku

2004-09-29T16:33:00.000+08:00

Kuku
Mixed Herbs Flat Omelet

Kuku (eggah in Arabic) is a versatile dish popular throughout the Middle East.In Iran, the fresh greenness of kukuye sabzi always appears on No Ruz, the New Year celebration falling on the vernal equinox.

Unlike omelettes,kuku feature the "filling" more than the eggs, and is cooked on both sides until brown and firm. Kuku can be made with potatoes, eggplants, or practically any other vegetable in season. Serve for lunch, or cut into small pieces for an appetizer.

Total time 1 hour

16 eggs
2 cups minced onion
2 tbsp. flour
2-1/2 tsp. salt
1-1/2 tsp. black pepper
1/2 tsp saffron, dissolved in 1 tbsp. water (optional)
1/2 tsp. turmeric
6 cups mixed fresh herbs (scallions, dill, mint, chives, coriander, parsley), chopped
1/2 cup butter

Garnish
1/2 cup finely chopped parsley

Preheat the oven to 350F, or cook the dish on the stovetop.

Beat the eggs until they are light and fluffy, then blend in the minced onion, flour, salt and pepper, saffron (if using), turmeric and herbs. In a large frying pan or shallow casserole dish, melt the butter and tilt the pan to distribute it evenly over the entire surface. Pour in the egg-herb mixture, cover, put in the oven and bake for 30 to 45 minutes, until the kuku is crispy on top and brown on the bottom. For stovetop cooking, cook over medium heat for 3 minutes, then turn the heat down to low and continue to cook for another 20 minutes, or until the eggs are well browned. Cut the kuku into segments, turn each segment over, and return to the heat for another 10 minutes, or until the other side has browned. Serve hot or at room temperature, garnished with chopped parsley.

Kak al-Ramadan

2004-09-29T16:09:00.000+08:00

Kak al-Ramadan
Ramadan Crescents

The croissant was invented in 1686 in honor of the Budapest bakers who sounded a midnight alarm warning their people of the arrival of Turkish armies in their city. The pastry, its shape the insignia of the Ottoman flag, became popular throughout Europe. The pastry probably journeyed to its source of wartime inspiration in the course of French-Ottoman diplomatic exchanges, to become more substantial and bread-like. The style of preparation is classically European; the aromatics and garnishes quintessentially Ottoman.

Total time: 3-3/4hours
Dough preparation: 3-1/2 hours
Baking time: 15 minutes

1-1/2 cups milk
2 tsp. dry baking yeast
1/4 cup plus 1 tbsp. sugar
4-1/2 cups all purpose flour
1-1/2 tsp. salt
3/4 tsp. cinnamon, or 2 tsp. rosewater
1 cup (2 sticks) chilled butter
3 beaten eggs

Glaze
2 beaten eggs
2 tbsp. milk

Topping
2 tbsp. poppy seeds, sesame seeds,
ground almonds or pistachios

Warm the milk to skin temperature, sprinkle the yeast over it, and set aside until the yeast begins to bubble. Combine the sugar, flour, salt and cinnamon (if desired). Cut 4 tbsp. of cold butter into small pieces and rub them into the dry ingredients until the whole mixture becomes crumbly. Pour in the yeast mixture and rosewater (if desired), stir well, and knead briefly to make a soft ball of dough. Cover the bowl with a clean, damp cloth and refrigerate for an hour or more.

Cut the remaining butter sticks in halves or thirds lengthwise, lay flat on a piece of wax paper, cover with another piece of wax paper, and roll out into a 6x8" rectangle. Refrigerate the butter until you are ready to work with the dough. Knead the dough for 5 minutes, then roll out onto a lightly floured surface into a 12x16" rectangle. Remove a layer of wax paper from the butter, lay the butter face down in the center of the dough, and remove the other layer of paper. Fold over the sides of the dough to completely enclose the butter. Roll this out into a long strip, then fold into three, as if folding a letter. Cover the dough with plastic and refrigerate for 15 minutes.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Lay it out lengthwise on the lightly floured surface and roll it out into another long strip. Turn the dough over several times during rolling so that each side gets equal treatment. Fold the dough in three again, cover with plastic and refrigerate for another 15 minutes. Repeat this rolling, folding and refrigerating process two more times, the last time refrigerating the dough for a full hour.

Cut the dough into eight pieces, then roll out each piece into an 8x8" square. Cut each square diagonally to form triangles. Roll up the triangle tightly, from the wide side up to the tip, and pinch the ends together lightly. Remove to a baking sheet, central tip down to prevent unrolling. Beat together 2 eggs and 2 tsp. milk, then brush some over the crescents.

Store the filled trays of crescents in the refrigerator for 1 hour. In the meantime, preheat the oven to 425F.

Treat the crescents to another brushing of the egg-milk glaze, then sprinkle with the chosen topping. Gently pull apart the ends of the crescents, but do not straighten them out.

Bake for 10-15 minutes, until the crescents turn golden. Cool on a wire rack before serving.

Cooking The Feng Shui Way

2004-09-12T23:37:00.000+08:00

Chez é-sham...e-Zine® [Vol:5~Sept:04]

"For People Who Make Mistakes and Willing To Learn" ...

Feng shui(pronounced fung shway), developed in China some 4000 years ago, is very popular today. The placement of furniture, the colour of walls, the use of objects and foods are all supposed to affect our mood, well-being, health, productivity...even how pleasurable dining at our home is for friends and family!

Feng shui is an ancient art based on the theory of positive and negative energies (yin and yang). Its purpose is to help us live in harmony with our environment by creating a good flow of energy, or ch'i as it is known in Oriental cultures. The flow of ch'i in a house varies depending on the forms, colours and materials it encounters. Other decisive factors are the layout of rooms, location of doors and stairs and arrangement of furniture.

Some principles are self-evident. If you spend a lot of time in the kitchen, you want a lot of light, preferably sunlight for a homey feel throughout the day. You wouldn't put the stove (hot element) beside the fridge (cold element) or want the kitchen door to open directly onto the bedroom or living room. You're already practising feng shui.

But did you know that ch'i finds fluorescent lighting, plastic, vinyl and nylon coverings, small appliances like microwave ovens and toasters and wall-hung knives hostile? What can you do?

Decorate with lots of green plants; they protect against aggressive elements. Mirrors turn negativity away. Opt for halogen lamps where possible. Water (an aquarium for example) is a source of positive energy that provides balance in tense situations. Keep knives in a drawer and the toaster in the cupboard. Keep the kitchen clean and tidy at all times. Don't let food go bad or it will give off harmful ch'i. Food is affected by the energy around it. Cut food on a wooden counter. Don't eat while watching television or you will absorb the negativity of the news along with your meal. Focus on feng shui foods.

Feng Shui Foods

1.Cold-pressed, unsaturated vegetable oils like olive and sesame oils.

2.Lots of fruits and vegetables. Because they grow in the earth, root vegetables have stronger ch'i than other vegetables.

3.Feng shui recommends soy milk and coconut milk carried by a growing number of supermarkets.

4.Given meat's negative ch'i, feng shui favours fish and seafood as healthy, nutritious, low-fat sources of protein. Salmon is strongly recommended for people who feel sluggish.

5.Cereals, rice, barley and noodles are fibre-rich sources of hydrocarbons, protein, fat, vitamins and minerals, making them ideal feng shui foods.

The food we eat nourishes the body; the company we dine in nourishes the soul. The ambiance contributes as much as the dishes served to making a meal enjoyable. Many factors can affect the mood and behaviour of guests. For example, a transparent glass table can be distracting and make people uneasy, so a wood table is better. A round or oval table where people are closer and can see each other is preferable to a long rectangular one. According to feng shui, where you are seated has a big effect on the pleasure you take in the food, atmosphere and people around you. So you want to draw up a detailed seating plan based on your guests' personalities and the mood you want to set for the meal.

Feng Shui: Kitchen Tips

Feng shui masters spend their lives studying the discipline, aligning themselves with various approaches such as black hat sect, traditional, or intuitive feng shui. But you can instantly become a “kitchen master” with our quick and easy feng shui tips for your home:

1.Pay attention to your stove. Food nourishes you, affecting your ability to work and earn money, and the Ch’i of your cooking area will affect your meal. Keep the burners clean and use each one equally to illustrate the movement of good fortune in your life.

2.The cook’s back should never face the kitchen entrance. If the cook is unaware of who enters and exists, he or she could be startled, transferring negative Ch’i into the food. Place the cooktop on an island so that the cook can face the door. If the cook’s back must turn away from the entrance, hang a mirror on the backsplash or place a reflective object (like a tea kettle or a stainless steel utensil holder) on or beside the stove. This will allow the cook to remain aware of all activity.

3.The stove should not be placed under a window. Wind currents could pull the good Ch’i out of your food.

Dining the Feng Shui Way

4.Elements of fire and water clash, leading to bad Ch’i. Design your kitchen with distance between the two—your stove should not be adjacent to your refrigerator or sink. If such a placement is unavoidable, add a nourishing wood element—like a plant, butcher block, or wooden spoon—to turn the opposition into a cyclical relationship.

5.Plentiful food indicates prosperity. Hang pictures of fruits or vegetables on your kitchen’s walls to increase the sensation of abundance. Mirrors by your eating area, stove, or preparation will “double” your food as well, increasing wealth and health.

6.Clutter crowds your kitchen’s surfaces, often causing frustration. This inhibits the cook’s ability to prepare nourishing food. Keep all surfaces clear, storing all food and appliances not used on a daily basis out of sight.

7.Apply the same order to your pantry and cabinets. Broken items, empty boxes and containers, and unused food should be donated or discarded.

8.Keep in mind that Ch’i connects everything. Do you want to be linked to rotting fruit or unvalued knick-knacks? Discard, discard!

9.By the same token, surround yourself with meaningful things with positive Ch’i. Keep seashells gathered during a special family vacation on your windowsill, or display fresh flowers in an antique vase.

10.Keep trash and recycling centers out of sight. Garbage rarely signifies health and prosperity!

11.Don’t forget safety, an important component of feng shui. Knives should always be stored out of sight.

12.Sharp corners can be both unsafe and uncomfortable—how often have you banged your leg on a jutting table corner or squirmed in a Ch’i-depleting chair? Choose rounded corners over squared ones for tables, countertops, and chairs. Select wood over pointed glass tables. Hide and protect existing corners with plants and cushions.

13.When selecting your dining table, choose a softer, safer wood model over a pointed glass one. Oval and round tables are preferred over square and rectangular ones as they promote good Ch’i circulation.

14.Nourishment is as much a product of the cook as the food itself. The cook’s focus and spirits are transferred to the food. Make every effort to structure your kitchen (and your life!) in a way that facilitates a relaxed, leisurely, and meditative cooking process.

15.Remember—negative feelings and events tarnish the quality of your life. As a “feng shui rule of thumb,” surround yourself with whatever makes you comfortable and safe.

Source: The Western Guide to Feng Shui: Room By Room, by Terah Kathryn Collins

Seating Plan

In feng shui, the seating plan isn't dictated by the age, title or social standing of guests but by their personality... and the cardinal points. Try your hand at seating arrangements when entertaining friends, but also for family meals or romantic dinners.

1.Serious people should be seated facing west to help them relax.

2.A position facing south is good for a shy, withdrawn person. It will help them get closer to the others.

3.Someone who lacks self-confidence should face east.

4.Phlegmatic people should never be seated facing north, lest their coolness colour the ambiance.

5.A domineering, forceful guest should face north, which will have a calming affect.

6.The dominant seats are those facing the door or the longest part of the room because the people in them have a commanding view. Be careful who you seat there!

7.At family meals, parents should sit facing southeast (reinforcing wisdom and dignity) and northeast (reinforcing respect and care for others). If this isn't possible, northwest is next best (encouraging open-mindedness and communication).

8.Finally, avoid seating children with their back to a door or any other potential source of distraction. Why is obvious even if you know nothing of feng shui.

9.At a romantic dinner for two, facing west is best as this position is associated with pleasure.

10.Facing north, which corresponds to the night, will draw you closer together.

11.Facing south, will help you show your ardour, especially if you're shy and tongue-tied. Changing places throughout the meal is also a good idea.

12.Eating out of the same dish brings two people very close together. Prepare a slow-simmered dish where various flavours have commingled in the heat's long embrace. A fondue is the perfect solution if you don't have a lot of time to prepare the meal.

Colours Are Important

The colour of walls and objects is important. You can manage this energy as you wish in decorating your home. The better your understanding of colour's influence on your moods, emotions, health and success, the better you can make your life. Think of the atmosphere you want to create as you review the colours below.

1.Cream is associated with healing, health, serenity and well-being. In feng shui, cream is linked to sexual desire and stimulates sensuality.

2.White encourages drive and competitiveness.

3.Yellow speaks of comfort, warmth and sensual satisfaction, encourages pleasant conversation and is ideal for the eating area.

4.Orange is claimed to relieve fatigue and boost optimism. It's a vibrant colour that stimulates conversation.

5.Blue has a calming effect, reducing stress and producing serenity.

6.Green is associated with rebirth and creates a fresh, invigorating atmosphere, maybe because it reminds us of nature's greenery.

7.Red is the colour of luck, happiness and love. A little red in the decor encourages people to give voice to their ardour. But red should be used carefully -it stimulates aggressiveness as well as eloquence.

Feng shui helps us to create more beneficial surroundings. It encourages us to increase the energy in our homes using colours, materials, and the arrangement of furniture so that our lives become more harmonious. Feng shui is about being aware of the world around us and bringing balance to our lives.

Article from Metro.ca

Zalubiyyah - Fritters in Syrup

2004-09-10T16:28:00.000+08:00

The lover dissolves into the Beloved like milk in zalubiyyah.

Rumi

Zalubiyyah
Fritters in Syrup

This is universal festival food, a tasty idea from centuries past that has circulated around the world. It is often shared by pilgrims at Mina, the final stage of the hajj. A recipe for it appeared in Al-Baghdadi's 1223 cookbook. It is very much like the perennial County Fair attractions, fried dough and funnel cakes. At the 1904 St. Louis World's Fair, a Syrian vendor rescued his ice cream selling neighbor, fresh out of dishes, by rolling up a zalubbiyah and topping it with a scoop of ice cream to create the world's first ice cream cone. Rosewater gives zalubbiyah a Near Eastern taste, orange flower water a more North African one. In India, the fritters are known as jalebi.

Total time 3 hours
Batter & syrup preparation 30 minutes
Resting & cooling 2 hours
Frying time 30 minutes

Batter
1-3/4cups water or milk, approximately
2 tsp. yeast
1/2 cup yogurt
2-1/4 cups flour
Oil for frying

Syrup
2 cups sugar
1 tbsp. lemon juice
1-3/4cups water
2 tbsp. rose or orange flower water

Measure the water into a mixing bowl, sprinkle in the yeast and let it rest until bubbly. Add the yogurt, stir until dissolved, then add the flour and stir vigorously until thick and smooth. Cover the bowl with a towel and let the dough rest for at least 2 hours, stirring it down every half hour.

While the batter rests, prepare the syrup. Put the sugar, lemon juice and water into a saucepan, bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, until the syrup coats a cold metal spoon. Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the rosewater or orange flower water, and allow the syrup to cool.

Heat 2" of oil in a heavy saucepan. Using a wet spoon, pastry bag or narrow funnel (1/4 diameter tip), drizzle the batter into the oil in round dollops, spirals or figure eights. Do not crowd the pan. Fry gently for about a minute, turning them several times, until they are crisp and golden. Using a slotted spoon, remove the darkest zalubiyyah from the oil and drop it into the cold syrup; remove another and drop it into the syrup; remove the first one from the syrup and put it onto a baking sheet. Continue alternately transferring them from pan to syrup, from syrup to baking sheet, until the first batch is done; then begin the next batch until the batter is all gone.

Dust the zalubiyyah with confectioner's sugar. With sugar-dusted fingers, arrange them on platter and serve.

Arabic Food and Arab Hospitality

2004-09-08T17:09:00.000+08:00

Chez é-sham...e-Zine® [Vol:4~Sept:04]

"For People Who Make Mistakes and Willing To Learn" ...

Arabic Food and Arab Hospitality
by Eida Hasan

Arabic food and Arab hospitality can be somewhat of an overwhelming experience to first timers. My advice to anyone invited to a good old-fashioned Arabic meal is simply to wear loose fitting clothes. For, Arabic food is flavorful, diverse, and plentiful, but above all it will be offered to you relentlessly by your hosts. Even when there are no more buttons to unbutton, the offers to eat just a bit more keep coming. Regardless of how well or how little I knew my hosts, I have never been to an Arab home where I have not been kindly coerced into eating above and beyond what I am capable of eating. The very same occurred to guests at my own home when I was growing up. My mother followed the customs of her own mother - to feed your guests before you feed yourself, and to feed them well. My grandmother, I am told, had always stored food away that was to be offered to guests only. Yet this is not unique to my family. Great cooking, variety and abundance of food, and an insistence on good eating is found throughout the Arab world and in most Arab households. It is the Arab way of cooking and traditional hospitality.
Arab Hospitality Defined

For Arabs, hospitality lies at the heart of who they are. How well one treats his guests is a direct measurement of what kind of a person she or he is. Hospitality is among the most highly admired of virtues. Indeed, families judge themselves and each other according to the amount of generosity they bestow upon their guests when they entertain. Whether one's guests are relatives, friends, neighbors, or relative strangers, they are welcomed into the home and to the dinner table with much the same kindness and generosity. Arabic meals are more often a festive, warm and casual experience than they are formal. The guests are made to feel right at home, and to sample everything offered. In fact, most Arab hosts feel that they are failing in their role as host if their guests have not only tried all courses of the meal, but have also eaten more than is normally comfortable. The importance of hospitality to guests is something a visitor to an Arab home must understand. For the visitor who does not overeat may be seen by the host as a guest who is not showing proper appreciation. Again, this would cause the cook and/or host to feel that he or she is not fulfilling their duty. A meal is usually ended with the word sahtayn which means two healths to you, and this again emphasizes the importance of plentiful and healthy eating to the Arab people.

Veil - Modesty, Privacy & Resistance

Main Ingredients of Arabic Food

Arabic food has a lot of variety and its ingredients are far too many to name here. However, there are certain ingredients that make up many Arabic recipes. Wheat is the staple grain of Arabic cooking and it is used in bread, pastries, salads, and main dishes. Rice is another staple ingredient. In fact, rice is to the Arab what potato is to the Irishman as it is used often in Arabic recipes. It is most often cooked with vegetables, chicken, lamb or beef. Vegetables and beans are also found often in Arabic recipes. Compared to Western cooking, Arabic cooking contains a large variety of vegetables including eggplant, cauliflower, zucchini, and spinach. Beans such as garbanzo and fava beans are used often in dips such as hummus. Olive oil is a favorite as well. The basic dressing used for salads is olive oil, garlic and lemon. Olive oil is also used in bean, yogurt and vegetable sauces and dips. Lamb and mutton are the most common meats used throughout the Arab world. It is common on festive or religious occasions to serve dishes with lamb. For centuries, Arabs have served stuffed lamb on their most special occasions and to their most honored guests. In fact, T.E. Lawrence, known to most as Lawrence of Arabia, described in detail a feast of stuffed lamb in his memoirs Seven Pillars of Wisdom. Finally, most Arabic desserts, which are an important part of Arabic meals, consists of very thin pastries stuffed with dates or nuts, spices and butter and covered in a syrup of honey or sugar.

Popular Arabic Dishes

Arabic food, it seems, is only just becoming familiar to the Western world, particularly in the United States. Most cities are only recently seeing an increase in restaurants serving Arabic food. However, there are a few Arabic foods that most people have already tried or at least heard of. Hummus, a dip made of garbanzo beans, sesame seed paste, lemon garlic and sometimes olive oil, is already sold at most major deli and grocery stores. Arabic bread, known to most people as pita bread is eaten with most Arabic meals. Falafel, a veggie burger-like food made from chick peas, onion, potato and flour, among other ingredients, is also relatively well known to non-Arabs, as is shawirma which is also called gyros by the Greeks. Shawirma is a sandwich of rotisserie lamb or beef, wrapped in pita bread. Another popular Arabic recipe that can also be found in a deli is taboula which is a finely chopped salad of tomatoes, parsley, fresh mint, and crushed wheat. Stuffed grapevine leaves, called warak dawali, is another relatively well known Arabic food. The Greek version of this recipe is called dolmas. The Arabic recipe contains rice with beef or lamb, and lemon wrapped in grapevine leaves and cooked. Grapevine leaves used in this recipe can be found in speciality food stores. Unusual as this recipe may sound, this dish is especially flavorful. One last Arabic food that is popular to Arabs and non-Arabs alike is the pastry baklawa. No self-respecting host would forget to offer a tray of a variety of pastries to their guests with piping hot Arabic coffee or mint tea. Baklawa, the quintessential Arab pastry, is almost always among the pastries Arabs prefer. Baklawa is made from walnuts or pistachios, cinnamon, and orange blossom wrapped in a thin pastry shell and soaked in syrup. According to one cook book (From the Lands of Figs and Olives), it used to be said that in the Arab East, no young lady would make a good wife unless she could make baklawa dough. Today, that dough or pastry shell used in the recipe can be found in many grocery and speciality stores.

With the variety, robust flavor and exoticness of Arabic cooking, it is a shame that it is still relatively unknown to the majority of people. Good Arabic food, combined with traditional Arab hospitality, can be a wonderful dining experience.

(Some information was borrowed from the following three cook books: A Taste of Lebanon, by Mary Salloum; Lebanese Cuisine, by Madelain Farah; and From the Lands of Figs and Olives, by Habeeb Salloum and James Peters which I highly recommend.)

Fava Beans Stew - Egyptian Ful Medames

2004-09-07T23:54:00.000+08:00

There is little evidence to draw upon regarding Ancient Egyptian recipes, as it would appear that they did not consider it necessary to write them down. Scholars tend to rely on paintings that show feasting and celebratory scenes, such as those found in tombs.

Although the ancient people did not appear to use cookbooks, the ingredients needed to make most of the dishes are well known, many of which are still used in Egypt today.

For example Ful Medames is the national dish of Egypt and probably dates as far back as the Pharaonic periods. It would have commonly been eaten with bread, lentils, raw vegetables and eggs.

Egyptian Ful Medames

Total time 1-1/2 hours

2 cups dried fava or broad beans, soaked overnight
1/4 cup red lentils
1/2 tsp. salt
2 tbsp. finely chopped garlic
1/2 cup lemon juice
1 tsp. ground cumin
1/2 tsp. paprika
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup olive oil
1 tsp. allspice

Garnishes:
1 cup finely chopped parsley
1 cup finely chopped scallions
1 cup diced green and red peppers
6 hard boiled eggs, sliced
6 tomatoes, chopped

Drain the beans and put them in a large pot with the lentils. Cover with 3" of water, bring to a boil and simmer until the beans are tender, about 1-1/2 hours. Add salt after the first hour. When the beans are done, drain them and reserve 1 cup of the liquid containing the disintegrated red lentils. Put the beans in a serving bowl. Combine the garlic, lemon juice, cumin, paprika, salt, pepper, olive oil, reserved cooking liquid, and allspice, if desired. Add to the beans and mix well. Surround the serving bowl with garnishes on individual plates or bowls, and allow your guests to help themselves.

Paluda - Persian Fruit Salad

2004-09-03T16:48:00.000+08:00

Live as if you had never tasted this paluda,
As if you know nothing of this kitchen that you have seen,
For its paluda cannot help but intoxicate you,
And make you forget your humble sheepskin jacket
and your battered shoes.

Rumi

Paluda
Persian Fruit Salad

The Persian word paluda describes fruit salad, or sweet noodles soaked in honey or fruit syrup. To Mevlana, paluda symbolized spiritual sweetness. Simple and elegant, paluda often appears on the Iranian Friday afternoon dinner table, and can be made with whatever fruits are in season.

Total time 30 minutes

2 honeydew melons
2 cantaloupes
1/4 cup sugar
1 tsp. salt
8 peaches
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 cup rosewater

Halve the melons. Scoop the fibrous pulp and seeds into a sieve set over a large mixing bowl. Discard the seeds and fibers and reserve the melon juice. Using a melon baller, scoop out the melon flesh over the juice bowl, reserving any melon juice that drips out in the process. Put the melon balls into the bowl with the juice. Sprinkle in the sugar and salt and stir gently. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Blanch the peaches for 30 seconds, then remove from the pot and rinse with cold water. Peel and halve the peaches, slice them lengthwise, and put them into a second bowl with the lemon juice. Stir well to distribute the lemon juice evenly over the surface of each peach slice, to prevent discoloration.

Combine the melons and their juice, the peaches and lemon juice, and the rosewater. Toss gently, then transfer to a serving bowl. Chill for several hours before serving.

Cape Malay Rich Lamb & Tomato Bredie

2004-09-02T00:40:00.000+08:00

Cape Malay Rich Lamb & Tomato Bredie

Stew - it's an old-fashioned term but the nostalgic thoughts of comforting flavours that it evokes make it a perennial winter favourite. In South Africa,this particular stew is an old Cape dish called a bredie. What gives a bredie its unique character is the long,slow simmering until the meat and vegetables melt together in the rich, full-bodied gravy.

In addition to the potatoes and onion there is always a dominant vegetable such as
cabbage, beans or pumpkin. To my mind the finest bredie is made with lavish quantities if sweet, ripe tomatoes and a touch of fragrant lemon peel. Serve it with a bowl of steaming rice to soak up the juices.

Ingredients
6 lamb shanks or 1-2 lamb chops per person
1-2 tablespoons flour
2 tbsp vegetable oil
2-3 bay leaves
2 onions, chopped
1 tsp sea salt
freshly milled pepper, to taste
6 white peppercorns
1 kg ripe tomatoes, skinned and chopped, or 2x 400 g tins peeled tomatoes in juice,
chopped
1 tbsp sugar
zest of 1/2 lemon
3 potatoes, peeled and quartered
(Serves 4-6)

CHECKLIST:Chopping board,deep bowl,cook's knife, wooden spoon, large ironstone casserole dish or heavy-based frypan with a tightly fitting lid, citrus zester.

Do use a heavy-based casserole or frying pan with a tightly fitting lid for slow gentle cooking.During the long, slow simmering, the lamb and vegetables should almost become one.

STAGE 1

Lamb cuts suitable for stewing include shanks, neck chops and shoulder chops.

Dust lamb with flour and brown in heated oil.

STAGE 2

Use really
ripe, flavoursome tomatoes. Tinned tomatoes are a good option when you want to save time or when fresh tomatoes aren't at their best.

To peel fresh tomatoes, cut
a little cross with a sharp knife on the top of each one and immerse in boiling water for 10 seconds. Peel off skin with fingers.

Cut out stem, halve tomatoes, place face down and dice. Use a large board as you don't want to waste the juices.

STAGE 3

Add bay leaves and onions and gently cook until onions have softened.

Add salt and pepper,peppercorns,
tomatoes sprinkled with sugar and lemon zest. With the clean, direct and full
flavours of this stew you do not need to add many herbs and spices. Cover and simmer for about 2 hours.

STAGE 4

Add potatoes, cover and continue to cook for 30-40 minutes. Serve with piping hot steamed rice.

The stew can be made in advance but add the potatoes 30-40 minutes before serving.

For a delicious variation,use green beans instead of tomatoes. The basic recipe remains the same but omit the sugar.
In addition you will need 1 cup well-reduced meat stock, preferably home-made. (Tomatoes have their own juices; beans do not have as much.) The stock is added after the onions have softened, then 1 kg sliced green beans is stirred in.

Cape Malay Sosatie

2004-09-02T00:21:00.000+08:00

Cape Malay Sosatie

Total Preparation Time 4+ hours
Cooking time 20 minutes

1kg leg of Lambs, cut in 2.5cm cubes
1kg lean beef, cut in 2.5cm cubes (original recipe it was pork)
125gm mutton fat, cubed
75ml smooth apricot jam (6 tbsp)
25ml brown sugar (2 tbsp)
3 cloves garlic
12.5ml cornflour (1 tbsp)
2 bay leaves
25ml curry powder (2 tbsp)
25ml wine vinegar (2 tbsp)
12.5ml salt (1 tbsp)
5ml pepper (1 tsp)
3 onions, quatered
250ml dried apricots

Combine apricot jam, sugar, garlic, cornflour, bay leaves, curry power, vinegar, salt and pepper and add onion quarters. Cook until slightly thickened. Place lamb and beef cubes in mixture and marinate for 4 hours in a cool place, turning 2-3 time. Soak apricots in water until plump. Remove meat from marinade and thread onto skewers alternately with mutton fat, apricots and onion. Grill over coals until done.
Serve 6-8

Cape Malay Bobotie

2004-08-31T03:32:00.000+08:00

Bobotie came to South Africa via Malaysia, and is a sort of savory bread custard with lots of ground lamb/beef, curry, fruit and nuts. Make sure the ground lamb/beef you use is very, very lean.

Cape Malay Bobotie

Total time 2-1/2+ hours
Cooking time 60 minutes

The Filling

1 lb beef/lamb, minced
2 eggs
2 slices white bread, stale with crusts removed
1 onion, thinly sliced
2 tbsp cooking oil
2 tbsp hot water
2 tbsp sugar
6 almonds - chopped
½ cup golden raisins
2 tbsp lemon juice
2 tsp curry powder
½ tsp ground cloves
1 tsp garlic, crushed
1 tsp turmeric
½ tsp salt

The Topping

1 egg, lightly beaten
½ cup milk
bay leaves or lemon leaves for garnishing

Pre-heat the oven to 325o F.
Soak the bread in water for 10 minutes, squeeze out the excess and then crumble.
In a large frying pan, heat the oil and braise the onion until golden.
Break the two eggs into a large bowl and beat lightly. Mix in the mince lamb/beef
Add the onion mixture from the frying pan, the hot water, lemon juice, crumbled bread, raisins, almonds, turmeric and sugar to the mince meat, mixing well.
Spoon the mixture into a well-greased, oven-proof dish and bake for 40 minutes, or until golden brown and then remove from the oven.

Topping
Combine the other egg with the milk and beat well.
Pour the mixture over the bobotie and arrange the bay/lemon leaves as garnish.
Return to the oven and bake at 350o F for 10 minutes, or until the topping is set.

Serve the Bobotie with a large salad and rice.

The Cape Malay Influence in South African Cooking

2004-08-31T03:03:00.000+08:00

Chez é-sham...e-Zine® [Vol:3~Sept:04]

"For People Who Make Mistakes and Willing To Learn" ...

Welcome to an exceptional city, a place where dreamers find inspiration, where lovers are compelled to return, time and again.
This is Cape Town, a sophisticated city at the gateway to a majestic continent. Proudly conscious of itself, yet always subtle, the Mother city is both exhilaratingly modern aand humble, even down to earth.

Cape Malay Cooking

With their soft, caramel skins and wide smiles, the Cape Malay people are a prized and proud element of the South African culture.

The first group of Malaysian state prisoners landed on the shores of South Africa from Java and the neighboring Indonesian islands in the late 1600's. Many more followed in the years 1727 until 1749. Not only did this proud and attractive people bring with them the Moslem faith and fine architecture, they also brought with them a unique cookery style, introducing exciting mixtures of pungent spices that has had a heady influence on traditional South African cuisine. Indeed, the Malay-Portuguese words such as bobotie (a curried ground beef and egg custard dish), sosatie (kebabs marinated in a curry mixture) and bredie (slowly cooked stews rich in meat, tomatoes and spices) are integral in their cookery vocabulary.

Dr. Christian Louis Leipoldt, great Cape born surgeon, poet, esteemed chef and wine connoisseur who died in 1947, left a rich and amusing account and recipes for a number of Malay dishes in his book, 'Leipoldt's Cape Cookery', eventually published in 1976. Noted for his aversion to weights and measures, his recipes are liberally sprinkled with 'a hint of this' or 'a scattering', 'a pinch' of that.

Mother City - Cape Town

In 1946 he wrote of an interest in cookery that dated back to the late 1880's when he was just a small boy, where, under the guidance a spotless if obese, expert Cape Coloured woman, he greedily devoured her culinary magic and expertise in the preparation of Malay cookery. "The Ayah's art was the result of many years of instruction and experience in the traditional methods of Malay cookery, whose outstanding characteristics are the free, almost heroic use of spices and aromatic flavourings, the prolonged steady, but slow application of moist heat to all meat dishes, and the skillful blending of many diverse constituents into a combination that still holds the essential goodness of each," he wrote.

It all began in 1652, when the Cape of Good Hope was born, a stop in South Africa for ships of the East India Company of Holland on their way east. Immigrants from Europe, convicts from China, slaves from Mozambique and the prisoners from Java soon increased the populace of the seaside village bringing with them their unique cookery skills. A multi-ethnic cuisine emerged, and one can only imagine the aromas emanating from kitchens producing highly spiced dishes from Dutch, Italian, Portuguese and especially oriental recipes handed down for generations.

The Malay influence comes through in the curries, chilies and extensive use of spices such as ginger, cinnamon and turmeric. More Malay magic comes through the use of fruit cooked with meat, marrying sweet and savoury flavours, with hints of spice, curry and other seasonings. The food has a nuance of seductive spiciness, true testament to the culinary capabilities of Malay women world wide. I cannot think of a dried apricot without the image of a caramel coloured woman, grinning widely, a wooden spoon in her hand, gently stirring a pot of simmering curry and fruit. Splendid!

Leipoldt wrote;
"To make a bobotie it is necessary to have clean hands, for you must knead the meat as you do a dough. Take then of tender mutton and the backstring (fillet) of pork of each a pound in weight, and that without fat or hard part; pound it vigourously in your mortar, with a handful of blanched almonds, 12 pepper corns, a slice of green ginger, a chili, a leaf of the herb marjoram, some coriander seeds, a very small piece of fresh garlic, or if you have none of it, half a leaf of an onion, and the grated rind of a lemon, and work into it half a cupful of wine in which you have soaked an ounce of tamarind. Let it stand overnight. Then, beat into it half a cupful of cream and two tablespoonsful of good butter, not too much salt, and knead it well. Shape it into a round loaf and put it into an earthenware pie-dish that you have well smeared inside with butter and sprinkled with a few cumin seeds. Put it in the oven and when it gets hot and expands, but not before, pour over it two cups of milk in which you have beaten up the yolks of three eggs and a tablespoonsful of curry powder such as you may get at the Malay store. Let it bake till it is well set, and then put upon it a few blanched almonds and a grating of nutmeg. Before you send it to table you may, if you are not pleased with its top colour, pass a hot salamander over it."

I think that Cape Malay bobotie recipe may be a little simpler and just as good. However, for the hardy and brave, try this method and enjoy a little bit of South Africa.

Syrup of Sekanjabin

2004-08-30T16:44:00.000+08:00

God's wrath is His vinegar, mercy His honey.
These two are the basis of every oxymel.
If vinegar overpowers honey, a remedy is spoiled.
The people of the earth poured vinegar on Noah;
the Ocean of Divine Bounty poured sugar.
The Ocean replenished his sugar,
and overpowered the vinegar of the whole world.

Rumi

Syrup of Sekanjabin

Sekanjabin is a medieval Arabic version of oxymel, which is a general term for medicinal drinks combining vinegar with sugar syrup or honey. It is probably first mentioned by the ancient Greek medical writer Hippocrates, who prescribes it extensively and comments that, among other things, “it promotes expectoration and freedom of breathing.” (Hippocrates, On Regimen in Acute Diseases, tr. Francis Adams). The Anglo-Saxons also knew it: an old Anglo-Saxon leechbook mentions oxymel as “a southern acid drink” (Cockayne vol II p. 153), and suggests betony in oxymel as a relief “if a man is tired by a long journey” (p.152). Later the writer gives the recipe for oxymel, together with the injunction to drink it for “the half dead disease” (p. 285), or for epilepsy. Platina, a 15th-century Italian writer, mentions honey/vinegar oxymel several times, suggesting it as a remedy for the harmful effects of melons (Milham p. 127). Andalusian Sekanjabin likewise has a medicinal slant, since it is described as being “beneficial for fevers of jaundice, and calms jaundice and cuts the thirst” (see recipe below). Like most Arabic syrups, it was intended to be drunk with hot water as a medicinal draught, although they were probably also drunk cold for refreshment.

The concept of using a basic oxymel infused with herbal flavour of some sort is fairly universal; the Anglo-Saxon leechbook suggests infusing it with radish as well as betony, and Hippocrates speaks of infusing oxymel with asafoetida and carrot, or opoponax and southernwood (whatever those are). Cariadoc’s mint version doesn’t seem to be much of a leap, particularly given the modern sekanjabins he notes in ethnic restaurants and the parallel Andalusian recipe for mint syrup

Total time 2-1/2+ hours
Cooking time 30 minutes
Cooling 2+ hours

4 cups sugar
2 cups water
1 cup white vinegar
1/2 cup lemon juice
1 cup fresh mint leaves, plus 1 sprig per glass

In a heavy pan over medium heat, bring sugar and water to a boil. Boil for 5 minutes, then add vinegar and lemon juice and continue boiling until the syrup drips slowly from the end of a cold spoon. Lower the heat, add mint and simmer for 3 more minutes. Strain the syrup into a jar and let it cool. To serve, place an almond at the bottom of a glass, pour in 3 tbsp. of syrup, add ice water and stir. Garnish with a sprig of mint. You may also add a little grated cucumber to the glass.

*The syrup stores without refrigeration

Mint & Lemon Drink

2004-08-30T16:04:00.000+08:00

Ho, saki, haste, the beaker bring,
Fill up, and pass it round the ring.
Love seemed at first an easy thing —
But ah! the hard awakening.

Hafiz

Mint & Lemon Drink

Served after a meal, this is an excellent aid to digestion.

Total time 10 minutes

6 tbsp. grated lemon zest (about 3 lemons)
8 cups water
6 tsp. dried mint

Bring freshly drawn water to a boil. Add the lemon zest and mint and boil for 1 minute. Strain into cups and serve hot, with or without sugar.

Coffee — The Wine of Islam

2004-08-02T23:10:00.000+08:00

Chez é-sham...e-Zine® [Vol:2~Aug:04]

"For People Who Make Mistakes and Willing To Learn" ...

Most modern coffee-drinkers are probably unaware of coffee's heritage in the Sufi orders of Southern Arabia. Members of the Shadhiliyya order are said to have spread coffee-drinking throughout the Islamic world sometime between the 13th and 15th centuries CE. A Shadhiliyya shaikh was introduced to coffee-drinking in Ethiopia, where the native highland bush, its fruit and the beverage made from it were known as bun. It is possible, though uncertain, that this Sufi was Abu'l Hasan 'Ali ibn Umar, who resided for a time at the court of Sadaddin II, a sultan of Southern Ethiopia. 'Ali ibn Umar subsequently returned to the Yemen with the knowledge that the berries were not only edible, but promoted wakefulness. To this day the shaikh is regarded as the patron saint of coffee-growers, coffee-house proprietors and coffee-drinkers, and in Algeria coffee is sometimes called shadhiliyye in his honor.

The beverage became known as qahwa — a term formerly applied to wine —and ultimately, to Europeans, as "The Wine of Islam." It became popular among the Sufis to boil up the grounds and drink the brew to help them stay awake during their night dhikr. (Roasting the beans was a later improvement developed by the Persians.)

The Shadhili Abu Bakar ibn Abd'Allah al-'Aydarus was impressed enough by its effects that he composed a qasida (poem) in honor of the drink. Coffee-drinkers even coined their own term for the euphoria it produced — marqaha. The mystic and theologian Shaikh ibn Isma'il Ba Alawi of Al-Shihr stated that the use of coffee, when imbibed with prayerful intent and devotion, could lead to the experience of qahwa ma'nawiyya ("the ideal qahwa") and qahwat al-Sufiyya, interchangeable terms defined as "the enjoyment which the people of God feel in beholding the hidden mysteries and attaining the wonderful disclosures and the great revelations."

The Shadiliyya dervishes were active in the world; it is said that Shaikh Abul Hasan ash-Shadhili, the founder of the order, was reluctant to take on a student who did not already have a profession. It soon became apparent that coffee's benefits could be extended to the workday and the local economy as well. The southern Arabian climate was ideal for coffee cultivation, and the ports of Yemen, particularly the port of Mocha, became the world's primary exporters of coffee.

Turkish Tea

2004-07-19T00:45:00.000+08:00

Turkish Tea

It is customary to brew this tea in a samovar, and to serve it in small glasses, very sweet.

Total time 20 minutes

8 cups water (6 for tea, 2 to warm the pot)
4 tsp. tea leaves
1 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. water
4 lemon slices

Bring 8 cups of water to a boil in a samovar. Pour 2 cups of the water into a tea pot, swirl it around to warm the pot, then pour it out. Put the tea and sugar into the bottom of the pot and moisten with 1 tsp. water. Pour the remaining 6 cups of water into the kettle and allow the tea to steep for 6 minutes. Strain tea into tea glasses; add lemon and/or sugar if desired. Makes 6-12 servings.

Ayran - Iced Yogurt Drink

2004-07-19T00:38:00.000+08:00

You look to outside of yourself,
but you are the source of milk — why do you milk others.
There is a shoreless ocean of milk inside you —
why do you seek milk with a pail?

Rumi

Ayran
Iced Yogurt Drink

A staple beverage of Turkey, particularly appreciated on hot summer afternoons.

Total time 10 minutes

4 cups drained yogurt
8 cups ice cold spring water or sparkling mineral water
1 tbsp. dried or 2 tbsp. fresh, finely chopped mint
2 tsp. salt, or to taste
1/4 cup lemon juice, or to taste (optional)

With a whisk or a blender, combine all ingredients until completely smooth. For extra tartness, add lemon juice. Serve fully chilled, with one or two ice cubes.

Karidopita - Byzantine Walnut Cake

2004-07-19T00:02:00.000+08:00

Karidopita
Byzantine Walnut Cake

This cake is best-known by its Greek name; it is also popular throughout Turkey and Armenia.

Total time 3-1/4+ hours
Cooking time 1-1/4 hours
Cooling 2+ hours

Syrup
1-1/2 cups sugar
1-1/2 cups water
1 cinnamon stick
2 tsp. lemon juice

Cake
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter
3/4 cup sugar
4 eggs, separated
1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
4 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. salt
2 cups finely chopped walnuts

Preheat the oven to 350F.

Combine 1-1/2 cup each of sugar and water, a cinnamon stick and 1 teaspoon lemon juice in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and boil gently for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and pour the syrup into a metal bowl to speed cooling. Refrigerate the syrup until the cake is ready.

Cream together the butter and sugar, then beat in the egg yolks until smooth and fluffy. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, cinnamon and salt. In another bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form.

Blend the dry ingredients into the butter-sugar-egg mixture, then fold in half of the beaten egg whites. Gently fold in the ground walnuts, then fold in the rest of the egg white. Turn the mixture into a lightly buttered 9x12" baking pan, and bake for 45 minutes, or until a cake tester or toothpick comes out of the cake clean.

Remove the cake from the oven and poke small holes into its surface with a toothpick or cake tester. Pour the cold syrup over the surface of the cake; tilt the pan to distribute the syrup evenly. Let the cake cool completely and fully absorb the syrup before cutting into squares or diamonds.

Mamoul - Dates or Nut-Filled Pastries

2004-07-18T23:53:00.000+08:00

Mamoul
Dates or Nut-Filled Pastries

Popular in Syria and Saudi Arabia, these stuffed pastries are often served at 'Id celebrations. This recipe makes about 30, and is easily doubled.

Total time 3-1/2+ hours
Cooking time 1-1/2 hours
Cooling 2+ hours

Dough
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tbsp. sugar
1/2 lb. (2 sticks) unsalted butter
1 tbsp. rose or orange flower water
1/4 cup milk

Dates filling
1 lb. pitted and chopped dates
1/2-1 cup water

Nut filling
2 cups finely chopped walnuts, almonds or pistachios
1cup sugar
1 tbsp. rosewater or cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 350?F.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, sugar and butter, working them together with your fingers. Add the flower water and the milk, then mix and knead the dough until it is soft and pliable. Let the dough rest for a half-hour.

To make date filling, put the dates and water in a saucepan; if the dates are very dry, more water will be needed. Heat until it bubbles, then lower the heat and simmer until the dates disintegrate and form a solid mass. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

For nut filling, combine the chopped nuts and sugar. Use rosewater with almonds or pistachios, and cinnamon with walnuts.

Roll a walnut-sized lump of dough into a ball. Flatten the ball in the palm of your hand. Fill the center of the patty with about 2 teaspoons of filling. Bring up the edges of the patty, poke down the filling, and pinch and smooth over the top to form a seamless ball again. Another traditional shape is the crescent, formed by folding the patty in half and pinching the edges to close it.

Put the mamoul, smoothest side up, onto a large baking sheet. Flatten lightly, and make a pleasing pattern with a nut pick or fork. Bake for about 20 minutes; remove the mamoul from the oven before they begin to turn brown. Cool completely on a wire rack, then roll in confectioner's sugar. Store in an airtight container.

Nan Berenji - Iranian Rice Shortbread Cookies

2004-07-18T23:46:00.000+08:00

Nan Berenji
Iranian Rice Shortbread Cookies

These are similar to ghorabeyeh; the addition of eggs results in a fluffy, delicate texture. If rice flour is unavailable, grind raw rice or cream of rice to a fine powder in a coffee or spice grinder.

Dough preparation 1/2 hour
Refrigeration Overnight
Baking time 1-1/2 hours

1/2 lb. (2 sticks) unsalted butter
2 cups confectioner's sugar
2 eggs
1/2 tsp. cardamom
2 tbsp. rosewater
2-1/4 cups rice flour
1/4 cup poppy seeds

Cream the butter and sugar. Add the eggs one at a time, beating constantly until the mixture is smooth. Stir in the cardamom and rosewater. Add the rice flour a quarter cup at a time, beating until the mixture is smooth. Form the dough into a ball, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.

Preheat the oven to 375F. For each cookie, roll a teaspoon of dough into a ball, press it onto a greased or parchment-lined baking sheet, and sprinkle with poppy seeds.

Bake for 10 minutes on the center rack of the oven, until the cookies are firm but still white. Let the cookies rest on the baking sheet for several minutes before removing them to a rack to cool. Store in an airtight container until serving.

Sekerpare

2004-07-18T23:41:00.000+08:00

Sekerpare
These pastries are served on special occasions in Turkey and the Balkans.

Total time 3-1/4 hours
Syrup & dough preparation 45 minutes
Dough resting 30 minutes
Forming & baking 1 hour
Cooling 1 hour

Syrup
2 cups sugar
2 cups water
1 tbsp. lemon juice

Dough
1 stick butter, melted
1 cup confectioner's sugar
2 tbsp. baking powder
4 cups flour
2 egg yolks
1/4 tsp. salt
1 cup almonds or pistachios

Combine the sugar and water in a pan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Continue to boil for ten minutes, until the syrup is thick enough to drip slowly from a cold metal spoon. Stir in the lemon juice and set aside to cool.

Preheat the oven to 350 F.

Combine the powdered sugar, flour, baking powder and salt in a mixing bowl. Make a well in the center and add the melted butter and egg yolks. Stir well until the ingredients hold together, then remove the dough to a smooth surface and knead for 10 minutes. Form the dough into a ball, return to the mixing bowl, cover it with a damp towel and leave to rest for 30 minutes.

Take walnut-sized pieces of dough, roll them into balls and place on a baking sheet. Make an indentation in the top of each ball and press in an almond. Bake on the center oven rack for 30 minutes, then move the pan to the top rack and bake another 10 minutes. Cool on the sheet for 10 minutes. Arrange the sekerpares on a serving dish, then spoon syrup over each a bit at a time until no more can be absorbed. Chill for at least an hour before serving.

Baagh-lava - baklava

2004-07-18T23:15:00.000+08:00

Love subdues all, and I am subdued by Love.
By love's salt, I have been made sweet as sugar.

Rumi

Baagh lava (baklava) are found everywhere in Middle East and the Mediterranean. The oldest recipe resembling baklava comes from ancient Assyria at around 8th century B.C. In the surviving recipe a few layers of thin bread dough are put together with chopped nuts in between those layers, some honey was added and then the mix was baked in wood burning ovens. Originally baklava and most sweets were baked only on special occasions and even today some are only baked for No Ruz. Baklava is more common and is consumed extensively throughout the year and is a must for weddings as well. It is different from baklava in other countries and is cut differently. The recipe below is for 10 people, Iranians normally bake for large crowds and you may need to multiply the ingredients to have enough.

Baagh-lava (baklava)

The perfect dessert.

Total time 3-3/4+ hours
Preparation 30 minutes
Baking time 1-1/2 hours
Cooling 2 hours

Syrup
1-3/4cups sugar
2 tbsp. lemon juice
1-1/4 cups water
2 tbsp. honey (optional)
2 tbsp. rosewater or orange flower water
1/2 tsp. allspice (optional)

Pastry
1 cup (2 sticks) sweet butter
1 lb. fillo dough

Nut Filling
2 cups finely chopped walnuts
1 tsp. cinnamon

Coconut Filling
2-1/2 cups shredded coconut
1/4 cup sugar
1 tbsp. orange flower water

Raisin-Nut Filling
1/2 cup sesame seeds
1-1/2 cup finely chopped pistachios, almonds or hazelnuts
1/2 cup raisins
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. nutmeg

First prepare the syrup. Combine the sugar, water a lemon juice in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. If you like the taste of honey, add it after 10 minutes. Turn off the heat, stir in the rosewater or orange flower water, and the allspice if desired. Let the syrup cool in the refrigerator while you prepare the baklava.

Preheat the oven to 350F.

To prepare the filling, combine all the ingredients in a bowl and set aside.

Melt the butter over low heat, skimming off the solids that rise to the top. Grease a large baking pan (about 9x13") with 2 tbsp. of the melted butter. Gently open up the stacked fillo sheets and cut them in half to fit the bottom of the pan. Place two sheets of fillo in the pan, then brush over the top with a tablespoon of the melted butter. Add two more sheets and butter the top, then continue this process until you have eight layers in the pan. Sprinkle half of the filling over the fillo, then add six more layers of fillo, brushing with butter after every other layer. Sprinkle the other half of the filling over the fillo, then layer with the rest of the fillo. Brush the top with the rest of the butter. Cut the top of the baklava without compressing its top.

Bake for 30 minutes, then lower the heat to 300F and bake for another hour or until the top is light gold. Remove the pan from the oven and pour the cold syrup over it, then let the baklava rest for at least 2 hours before serving.

Bulgur Pilaf

2004-07-18T23:04:00.000+08:00

There is a banquet where grains of wheat
sit and eat and shout for more,
and more is brought.
These banqueter seed-grains never
quit eating, and for eternity
the table stays replete.

Rumi

Bulgur Pilaf

Total time 1-1/4 hours

6 tbsp. Butter
2 cups onion, finely chopped
3-4 dried apricots, sliced
3 cups Italian frying peppers, finely chopped
2 tsp. Salt
1 tsp. Pepper
3 cups bulgur
5 cups water or stock
2 tbsp. tomato paste
2 cups finely chopped parsley

Melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat, and saute the onion, frying peppers, dried apricots, salt and pepper for 5-10 minutes, until the onions become translucent. Add the bulgur and saute for another 5 minutes. At the same time, using a separate pot, dissolve the tomato paste in 1 cup water or stock, add the rest of the cooking liquid, and bring it to a boil. Pour the boiling liquid over the bulgur and vegetables, stir well to combine, cover, lower the heat, and let cook for 20 minutes, until all of the liquid is absorbed.

Turn off the heat and fluff up the pilaf with a fork. Add the chopped parsley, put a clean dish towel over the pot, replace the lid, and let the pilaf sit for 40 minutes before serving.

The Malay Kitchen

2004-07-18T02:15:00.000+08:00

Chez é-sham...e-Zine® [Vol:1~July:04]

"For People Who Make Mistakes and Willing To Learn" ...

Malaysians of all ethnic backgrounds consider the kitchen to be the very heart of the house. Here women gather to chat and cook amidst piles of herbs, spices, green vegetables, fresh meat and dried fish. The odour of charcoal mingles with the mouth-watering aromas of frying garlic, throat-catching, seared chilli peppers and pungent belacan shrimp paste. For Malaysians, it's the smell of home.

Kampung Cuisine
By nature a rural people, Malaysians have their spiritual roots in the traditions of the kampung, or village compound, even if they are residents of great cities like Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. This comes through in their simple yet sophisticated cooking, which relies on a wide range of herbs and spices. Hot chillies, sour tamarind, tart lime juice, pungent shrimp paste and fragrant coconut milk are common ingredients of Malay dishes. These distinctive flavours combine with various other ingredients--onion, garlic, lemon grass, turmeric, galangal and ginger to name but a few--in a pounded paste called rempah which lies at the very heart of Malay cuisine.

The traditional Malay kampung comprises a single-storey wooden house set in a cleanly-swept yard. Shaded by coconut palms, mango, banana, jackfruit and other fruit-bearing trees, chickens peck their way between rows of vegetables and herbs planted for the use of the family. In a Malay kampung are no pigs and no dogs-if such animals are visible, then the house belongs to non-Muslims, generally Chinese or, in the north of the country, Thai Buddhists.

The heady aroma of herbs and spices, mingled with the rhythmic beating of pestle and mortar, points the way to the Malay kitchen or rumah dapur. This is a single room, usually located at the back of the house, or sometimes in a detached outhouse to minimise the risk of fire. Roofed with atap thatch, corrugated iron or simple tiles, a large window spaces permit the smell of smoke and cooking to waft away on the wind.

A typical Malay kitchen has shelves and cupboards piled high with dry goods and spices of all sorts. In times past a meat safe was indispensable for preserving fresh meat, but today refrigerators have taken over this role. Wooden or metal food cabinets with wire-mesh sides protect prepared foods, while rice is stored in sealed jars and large earthenware vessels hold rainwater. Dried foodstuffs hang from hooks in the ceiling, while drying chillies lie on rattan sieves known as nyiru.

The kitchen is very much a female domain, so much so that the term orang dapur or "person of the kitchen" also functions as a polite epithet for women and girls. Here, from dawn to dusk, the women of the family gather--not just to prepare meals, but to teach and to learn the art of kampung cuisine. Girls assist in the kitchen from a young age, helping their mother grind spices and stir pots, while grandmother squats to watch and offer words of advice. In this way recipes pass from one generation to the next within the family, and as a result dishes vary from household to household, the distinctive family rempah often remaining both a carefully-guarded secret and a source of pride.

Men do not usually participate in cooking, though they may assist with heavier work such as lugging firewood and charcoal for the tungku lekar or stove. This is the heart of the kitchen and deeply symbolic of the female domain, so that in the traditional Malay heartland of Trengganu the term tungku lekar remains a polite epithet for "wife". In rural areas men are responsible for slaughtering goats, chickens and other livestock according to Islamic dietary law. Malays also believe that some dishes, notably satay and barbecued meats, taste better when men prepare them.

Healthy Eating
Malays--like most Malaysians--divide food into four types: heating, cooling, neutral and clarifying. Good health depends on maintaining a natural balance between these categories. Heating foods include meats such as beef, mutton and goat, as well as fried foods like banana and plantain, curry puffs, curries and stews. Cooling foods, by contrast, include most fruits and leafy vegetables--especially Chinese pears, okra (lady's fingers) and cucumber; tea, barley water and sago. Neutral foods include chicken and most fish, while clarifying foods such as herbal tea should be eaten twice monthly to purify the blood.

Dining Etiquette
It is sometimes said that Malays are always eating. In fact they don't eat more than other peoples, but they do tend to eat smaller quantities and more frequently than Westerners. This means that, in addition to eating the three main meals, Malays often take a break for snacks mid-morning, mid-afternoon and late at night--indeed whenever the initial pangs of hunger may be felt. Dishes are served by the women, who in times past ate separately from, and after the men--a custom which today has all but disappeared except in the most traditional of communities.

Kampung

Women are also responsible for preparing kenduri, or feasts on special occasions--most notably during the fasting month of Ramadan, and especially at hari raya, the great celebration held to mark the end of the fast. The women of the kampung take out their largest cooking pots and work through the night, cutting and scraping, pounding and stirring, to create a huge array of dishes from curries and sambal to cakes and desserts.

Eating is a serious business, and meals are usually consumed quietly, if not in complete silence--there is plenty of time to talk after the food has been consumed, perhaps over tea, coffee, or cigarettes. Generally speaking plain water or iced syrup drinks are the liquid accompaniment to a meal, although fruit juices or bottled soft drinks are also acceptable. Beer, wine or other alcoholic beverages are forbidden by Islamic law, and are never taken with food or otherwise openly consumed.

Traditionally, Malay food is eaten with the fingers of the right hand, the left being reserved for personal ablutions. At table, the left hand may be used for drinking, passing dishes and handling implements such as serving spoons. Before any meal Malays will wash, then cleanse their fingers once again in a finger bowl at table. Rice--as elsewhere in Southeast Asia revered as the very staff of life--is then taken delicately in the right hand and compressed into a small ball and pushed into the mouth with the thumb.

Ideally, curries should not stain the fingers above the first knuckle, while rice should not cling to the fingers. Malays do not use chopsticks, but eat noodle dishes with a fork or a spoon. Nowadays the general use of fork and spoon is increasingly common, especially in cities and at restaurants. In a kampung setting, meals are generally eaten from a low table, the diners sitting cross-legged on the floor. Meals should always begin with a simple bismillah--"in the name of God"--the Muslim grace.

Utensils
Traditionally, firewood and charcoal were the only fuels available for cooking, and this remains the case in most remote rural communities today. In towns and larger villages, however, gas stoves have become the norm, while electric rice cookers are considered indispensable. Today the average middle class, urban Malay household may boast a whole range of modern appliances from refrigerators and food blenders to toasters and microwave ovens. Yet the traditional utensils of Malay cuisine will still be found in tens of thousands of kitchens from the remotest kampung in Kota Bahru to the heart of downtown Kuala Lumpur.

Sweets and desserts.
Preparation: A solid wooden chopping block and sharpened, heavy cleaver are basic essentials. To these must be added various grinders--the lesung batu or pestle and mortar, batu giling or stone roller, and the batu boh or mill--used for preparing spices and pastes. Roots and herbs are diced on a sengkalan or wooden curry board, while a coconut scraper or kukur niyur is indispensable in making both curries and sweets. Pastries are also made for desserts, and for this a torak or rolling pin and papan penorak or pastry board are considered essential.

Cooking:
Nowadays, even in the remotest kampung, stainless steel periuk or cooking pots have become commonplace. The traditional cooking implements of a Malay kitchen are still everywhere to be seen, however. These include the essential wok, known throughout Malaysia by its Malay name, kuali. These are chiefly used for stir-frying, but with the addition of a perforated steel plate can also be used for steaming. The bamboo steamer or kukusan is also widely employed. Curries are simmered for hours in clay pots called belanga, the cook stirring from time to time with a senduk or ladle, once made from a coconut shell, now generally of stainless steel. A further indispensable instrument is the spatula, or sudip, used in stir-frying.

Halal and Haram
The Malays of Peninsular Malaysia and Singapore are overwhelmingly Muslim, and adhere closely to Islamic dietary laws. Muslims should eat only halal or permitted foodstuffs, such as meat that has been slaughtered in the manner prescribed in the Qur'an, fish, grains, vegetables and fruits. Certain foodstuffs are considered haram or forbidden and must be avoided. Prominent amongst these are pork (babi), frogs (katak), amphibians in general, and shellfish.

These dietary laws may be easy enough to observe in an exclusively Muslim society, but present problems in Malaysia where many Chinese are devoted consumers of pork, shellfish and amphibians--frog, for example, can be found on menus as ayam padi or "padi chicken". Then there's the vexing question of alcoholic drink (minuman keras), forbidden by Islam but widely available. Even if you are not a Muslim, it's both polite and sensible to be aware of the dietary sensibilities of your Malay hosts.

A Selection of Dishes

The following twelve dishes have been selected to be representative not just of Malay cooking traditions, but of Malaysian cuisine as a whole.

There are three purely Malay dishes; three Peranakan dishes illustrating the mixed Malay-Chinese culinary tradition of the Straits Settlements (Penang, Melaka and Singapore); one indigenous recipe from Sabah and Sarawak; three Chinese recipes taken from each of the main Overseas Chinese migrant groups (Hainan, Hokkien and Canton); and two South Asian, one of which has Central Asian origins.

1. Sambal Udang (Malay)
2. Beef Rendang (Malay)
3. Udang Sarong (Malay)
4. Chicken Kapitan (Peranakan)
5. Laksa Lemak (Peranakan)
6. Nonya Pancake (Peranakan)
7. Umai / Hinava (Sabah & Sarawak)
8. Hainan Chicken Rice (Chinese/Hainanese)
9. Claypot Rice (Chinese/Cantonese)
10. Mee Hokkien (Chinese/Hokkien)
11. Roti Canai (South Asian)
12. Nasi Bokhari (South Asian/Central Asia)

Malay Recipes: Prawn Sambal or sambal udang is an enduringly popular and widespread Malay dish, as is the justly celebrated Beef Rendang. "Prawns in Sarongs" or udang sarong is tasty and attractive, and also has a somewhat whimsical name, derived from the pandanus leaf "sarong" wrapped around each prawn.

Peranakan Recipes: Also known as Nonya Cuisine, this Sino-Malay hybrid tradition is extremely sophisticated. Chicken Kapitan is the most famous curry dish in peninsular Malaysia, though Malays claim the best is to be had on Penang Island. Laksa lemak or Noodles in Spicy Coconut Milk comes from Melaka and is just delicious. Nonya Pancakes are a popular dessert combining pandan leaf batter with coconut sauce.

Sabah / Sarawak: Raw fish marinated in fresh lime salad--one of the best known indigenous dishes of Eastern Malaysia, originally linked to the Melanau people of Sarawak.

Chinese: Hainan Chicken Rice is available just about everywhere in Malaysia, and enduringly popular. Claypot Rice is a delicious hotpot dish originating in Canton (Guangdong). Mee Hokkien or Hokkien Fried Noodles is particularly famous in Singapore, where Hokkien migrants make up the majority of Singapore's ethnic Chinese population.

South Asian: Roti canai--flaky, griddle-fried bread eaten with dhal or curry sauce--may have originated in India, but in Malaysia it's everybody's favourite breakfast, regardless of ethnic background. Nasi Bokhari or "Bukhara Rice" is a pure Moghul dish originating in Uzbekistan; sophisticated and delicious.

This article taken from CPAmedia.com

Mi'raj Buriyani

2004-07-18T00:54:00.000+08:00

Once the Companions prepared some food, and each one brought a dish to share.

One said,
"The meat is from me."
Another said,
"The trimmings are from me."

Each one spoke up in this manner,
then the Prophet, peace and blessings be upon him, said,
"The rice is from me."

Nizamuddin Awlia

Mi'raj Buriyani

Buriyani is always served at religious celebrations in Sri Lanka. This one was an inspiration of Bawa Muhaiyaddeen.

Total time 2 hours

10 cups water
6 cups rice
1 tbsp. salt (for rice)
2 cups cooking oil (for frying)
3 cups potatoes, cut into 1/2" cubes
1/2 cup lima beans
3/4 cup string beans, cut into 1/2" pieces
1/2 cup shelled peas
3 tbsp. cooking oil (for vegetables)
2 tbsp. finely chopped onion
1/4 tsp. salt (for vegetables)
1 cup cabbage, cut into chunks
1 cup carrots, quartered lengthwise and cut into 1/4" slices
1/2 cup cubed kohlrabi
3/4 cup bell peppers, trimmed and cut into 1/2" squares
3 tbsp. Ghee
1 tbsp. Oil
1 tsp. finely chopped chili pepper
1/2 tsp. Salt
1/4 tsp. Turmeric
1/4 tsp. cumin seeds
1/4 tsp. fennel seeds
1/4 tsp. fenugreek seeds
1/4 tsp. black mustard seeds
1 cup finely chopped onion
2 tbsp. finely chopped chili pepper
1 cup broccoli florets and 1/4" stem slices
1/2 cup cauliflower florets
1/2 cup halved cashews
2 tsp. salt
3 tbsp. finely chopped garlic
2 tbsp. finely chopped ginger
1/2 cup tomato puree
1/4 tsp. cardamom
1 tsp. cayenne
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
A pinch of ground cloves
2 tsp. ground coriander
1/2 tsp. cumin
1 tbsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. ground ginger
2 tsp. onion powder
1/2 tsp. turmeric
2 tbsp. lemon juice
1 cup raisins

Bring 10 cups of water to a boil. Add the rice and salt, return to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes.

Heat the oil in a deep pot. Deep fry the potatoes a cup at a time, until they are golden brown, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. Drain them, sprinkle with salt, put them on a baking sheet lined with paper towels, and place them in a warm oven while the rest of the dish is being prepared.

Bring a 3-quart pot of water to a boil, add the lima beans, string beans and peas, and cook for 10 minutes or until done. Drain, put the vegetables in an oven-proof bowl, and place them in the oven with the potatoes.

Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a large pot, add the onions and 1/4 teaspoon salt, and saute until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the cabbage, carrots, kohlrabi and peppers; saute and stirring frequently, for about 10 minutes, until they are cooked through. Using a slotted spoon, remove these vegetables to another oven-proof bowl in the oven. Reserve the juices.

Using the same pot, heat ghee or oil, chili pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon turmeric. When the oil is hot, add the seed spices. When they begin to pop, add 1 cup onions and the chopped chilies, and saute until the onions become translucent.

Add the broccoli, cauliflower, cashews, 2 teaspoons salt, garlic and ginger, and mix well. Combine the tomato puree with the powdered spices, then add enough reserved vegetable juices and water to make 3 cups liquid. Pour this into the pot and mix well. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the lima beans, string beans and peas, and stir well. Add the lemon juice and cook for another 2 minutes.

Mix the sauce with the remaining vegetables, and add salt to taste. Let the sauce be a touch too salty, rather than too little, as it will be mixed together with the rice. Layer the rice, potatoes, raisins and curry sauce in a large serving dish and toss like a salad.

Sanbusa - Turnovers

2004-07-18T00:36:00.000+08:00

Sanbusa, like the heart hidden within the breast.

Rumi

Sanbusa
Turnovers

Another Ramadan dish popular in Syria, Lebanon and Egypt, sanbusa traveled to India and became known as samosa. Sweet sanbusa halvah are special favorites at weddings in the Gulf countries. This is a single recipe for dough, and three different fillings, each yielding enough to fill one batch of dough to make 36-48 pastries.

Total time 1-1/2 hours

Dough
3/4 cup butter
3/4 cup oil
5 cups white flour
2 tsp. salt
1/2-3/4 cup cold water

Melt the butter with the oil. Combine the flour and salt in a bowl, make a well in the center, and add the oil and butter. Stir vigorously until combined, then add water until the dough holds together and comes away from the sides of the bowl. Wrap the ball of dough in plastic and let rest in the refrigerator while preparing the stuffing.

Meat filling
1-1/2 pounds ground meat
3/4 cup finely chopped onion
1/4 cup oil
1/2 cup pine nuts
2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. pepper
1/2 cup, finely chopped parsley
3/4 tsp. cinnamon

Work all ingredients with the hands until fully combined.

Cheese filling
1-1/2 pounds feta cheese, crumbled
3/4 cup fresh herbs, finely chopped (dill, mint, chives, parsley, cilantro
3 tbsp. warm water
3/4 tsp. pepper

Place ingredients in the work bowl of a food processor; blend well.

Vegetable filling
1/4 cup olive oil
3/4 cup finely chopped onion
1-1/2 pounds leafy greens (spinach, chard, dandelion or nettles), coarsely chopped
2 tsp. salt
1/2 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped and lightly toasted
1/4 cup currants
3/4 tsp. pepper

Heat the olive oil over medium heat, then saute the onions for 2 minutes. Add the greens and salt and stir well. Lower the heat, cover the pan, and cook until the greens are wilted and give off their juices. Turn off the heat, add the toasted walnuts, currants and pepper, and stir well.

Sweet filling
3 cups finely ground almonds
1-1/2 cups sugar
2 tsp. cardamom
1/4 tsp. saffron, dissolved in 1 tbsp. water
2 tbsp. rosewater

Combine all ingredients and stir well.

To assemble the sanbusa:
Preheat the oven to 350?F. For each pastry, take a walnut-sized piece of dough and roll it out into a 3" circle. Place a teaspoonful of filling in the center of the dough, fold the circle into a half-moon shape and pinch the edges firmly. (Another traditional shape is the triangular pocket, formed by pinching together the edges of the circle in three seams that meet in the center over the filling.) Place the pastries on an ungreased baking sheet and bake in the oven for 45 minutes, until golden yellow, or deep fry in vegetable oil. Serve warm.

Fesenjan - Iranian Stew with Walnuts and Pomegranates

2004-07-18T00:14:00.000+08:00

Buy the pomegranate when it laughs —
its laughter reveals the secret of its seeds.
The garden answers the laughing pomegranate with bloom;
In companionship with the friends of God
you will bloom as they do.

Rumi

Fesenjan
Iranian Stew with Walnuts and Pomegranates

The ancient custom of combining meat with fruit occurs most notably in the cooking of Armenia, Georgia, Morocco and Iran. This traditional Iranian khoresh originated in the province of Gilan, on the shores of the Caspian Sea, its swamps the nesting place of delicious wild ducks. It is often served at Ramadan with the buttered rice dish chelou.

Total time 1-1/2 hours

2 lbs. boneless duck, chicken or lamb, or 3-1/2 lbs. with bone
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter
2 cups finely chopped onion
1 tsp. black pepper
1 lb. finely chopped walnuts
3/4 cup hot water or stock
3 cups pomegranate juice, 4 tbsp. pomegranate molasses with 2-3/4cups water, or 1 can cranberry jelly with water to make 3 cups
To taste salt (for stew)
2 lbs. eggplant
2 tbsp. salt (for eggplant)
1/4 cup cooking oil
2 tsp. cardamom (powdered)

Lamb or chicken may be used in this dish. If ground meat is used, roll it into small balls; if boneless meat is used, cut it into bite-sized pieces.

Melt the butter in a large pot; add onions and pepper, and stir frequently until browned. Remove the onion from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside. Put the meat and walnuts in the pan and stir frequently. When they have begun to brown, return the onions to the pan. Add water, pomegranate juice and salt; cover and simmer over low heat for 30 minutes.

Peel the eggplant and cut it into small cubes; toss with 2 tbsp. salt and let drain in a colander for 20 minutes. Then, rinse off the salt and bitter juices with cold water and pat the eggplant cubes dry. Heat the cooking oil in a large pan and saute the eggplant until it turns light brown. Transfer the eggplant to the pot with the meat, add the cardamom, stir well, cover and cook for another half-hour, until the eggplant is fully cooked and the flavors are well-blended.

Food for the Sufis

2004-07-17T23:26:00.000+08:00

Food for the Sufis

Bawa Muhaiyaddeen** cooked for his students with whatever food was at hand, adding generous spoonsful of love and South Asian spices. This is a scaled-down version of a 15-gallon vegetable stew prepared by Bawa in 1979.

Soaking Overnight
Total second-day time 1-1/2 hours

1 cup dried white beans
8 cups water
1/4 cup cooking oil
1 cup coarsely chopped onions
2 cups potatoes, quartered lengthwise, then thinly sliced crosswise
1 cup cabbage, finely chopped
1/2 cup cauliflower, finely chopped
1 cup carrots, quartered lengthwise the thinly sliced crosswise
1/2 cup green beans, trimmed and cut into 1/2" pieces
1 cup tomatoes, thinly sliced
1 cup bell peppers, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup lima beans
1/2 cup shelled peas

Sauce
1/4 tsp. cardamom
1/2 tsp. cayenne
1/4 tsp. cinnamon
A pinch of ground cloves
1/2 tsp. ground coriander
1/4 tsp. cumin
1/2 tsp. garlic powder
1/4 tsp. ground ginger
1 tbsp. salt
1/4 tsp. turmeric
4 tbsp. cooking oil
1/4 tsp. cumin seeds
1/4 tsp. fennel seeds
1/4 tsp. fenugreek seeds
1/4 tsp. black mustard seeds
2 tbsp. finely chopped onion
1 chili pepper, finely chopped
2 tbsp. tomato paste
2 tbsp. lemon juice

The night before cooking, cover the white beans with water and let soak overnight.

Drain the beans and place in a pot with 8 cups of cold water, bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer until cooked through, about 1-1/2 hours. Remove any loosened skins that have floated to the top of the water, then drain and set aside.

After the beans have been cooking for 45 minutes, heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat, add the onions and saute until they are golden brown, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the onions to a large heatproof mixing bowl, and place the bowl in a slightly warmed oven. Briefly saute the potatoes in the reserved oil, then add 1/2 cup water and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the lima beans and peas and continue to simmer until they and the potatoes are cooked through, about 7 minutes. Drain the vegetables, reserving the water; add them to the bowl with the onions, and return the bowl to the oven. Add another 1/4 cup of oil to the pot, and saute the cabbage, cauliflower, carrots for about 10 minutes, until they are just cooked. Using a slotted spoon, remove the vegetables to the bowl, and return the bowl to the oven. Saute the green beans, tomatoes and bell peppers until they are just cooked, then remove them to the mixing bowl.

To make the sauce, combine the powdered spices in a small bowl and set aside. Heat the oil in a heavy frying pan or wok over medium heat, add the seed spices and stir constantly until they begin to pop. Add the onion and chili pepper and saute for another 5 minutes, until the onions become translucent. Add the powdered spices, stir well to distribute them over the onions, lower the heat and cook for several minutes. Blend together the tomato paste, the reserved cooking water, and enough hot water to make 3/4 cup liquid. Pour this into the pan with the spices, stir well, and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the lemon juice and enough hot water to make a sauce the consistency of thick gravy. Cook for another 10 minutes, adding water as necessary.

Remove the mixing bowl from the oven. Toss the vegetables together, pour over the sauce, toss again and transfer to a serving dish. Serve with rice.

**
LIGHT - The Soundtrack

A collection of songs based on the teachings of Bawa Muhaiyaddeen. The Sufi master sang several of these songs in his native language of Tamil. A disciple, Jerry Forman, took the English translations and put them to music which fits the western ear in a more familiar way. Other songs were inspired by the experience of living with a man of true wisdom.

Songs from Light- The Soundtrack:

Master Without A Tongue (Real Audio File Format)
Just One Drop (Real Audio File Format)
What Will Fate Do To Me (Real Audio File Format)
Secret Garden (Real Audio File Format)
Gotta Be Small (Real Audio File Format)
Rescue Me (Real Audio File Format)

Photo Gallery from the 20th Anniversary of the Opening of the Mosque of Shaikh M. R. Bawa Muhaiyaddeen.
Philadelphia, PA, USA - May 27, 1984-2004.

#photo1>
#photo2>
#photo3>
#photo4>
#photo5>
#photo6>
#photo7>

Cevizli Tavuk - Circassian Chicken

2004-07-17T23:11:00.000+08:00

In the hearing of the ear there is transformation of qualities.
In the seeing of the eye there is transformation of essence.
Do not be deceived that words alone
might give you certain knowledge of fire.
Seek to be cooked by the fire itself;
don't abide in secondhand certainty.
You will never attain true certainty
without being yourself consumed by fire.

Rumi

Cevizli Tavuk
Circassian Chicken

Total time 1 hour

4 lbs. boneless chicken breasts or 5 lbs. with bones
2 medium onions, quartered
1 carrot, scraped, trimmed and cut into chunks
1/4 cup whole sprigs parsley
2 bay leaves
1-1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
2 cups shelled walnuts
3 slices French bread (enough for 1 cup crumbs)
1 clove garlic
A pinch of cayenne or hot paprika
2 tsp. paprika
3 tbsp. walnut or olive oil

Although other parts may be used, chicken breasts work best. They cook quickly and evenly; have little fat and no veins; no meat is left clinging to the bone; and the long grain of the white meat makes it ideal for shredding.

Put chicken breasts, vegetables and seasonings into a large pot, and cover with 4 cups of cold water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes, until the chicken is just cooked. Transfer the chicken and stock to a large bowl and let it all cool gradually. Once cool, remove the chicken from the bowl and rinse it off, strain and reserve all of the stock, reserve 1/2 cup of the cooked onions, and discard the rest of the vegetables. By hand, shred the chicken along the grain of the meat into thin strips, 1" to 2" long.

Clean out the pot, put the stock back into it and simmer it down to 2 cups. Remove crusts from the bread, then use a blender or food processor to reduce it to 1 cup of crumbs. Set aside the crumbs and put the walnuts into the blender or food processor; grind them finely; then add the garlic, reserved onion, and bread crumbs, and blend them all together. A little at a time, blend in up to 2 cups of stock, until you have a smooth, thick puree. Add salt, pepper, and a pinch of cayenne or hot paprika to taste. If the puree is too thick, add a little milk or water; if too thin, simmer over low heat until it thickens again.

In a small pan combine oil and paprika over very low heat until the oil begins to redden. Turn off the heat, let the oil cool, then strain, reserving the oil and discarding the paprika.

Mix up the chicken with half of the sauce, then put it into a serving platter. Spread the rest of the sauce over the chicken like frosting on a cake. Drizzle with paprika oil. Serve chilled or at room temperature.

Bread & Salt : The Common Bond

2004-07-17T22:53:00.000+08:00

By bread and salt we are united.
Moroccan proverb

Bread signifies all God given provisions, the abundance in simplicity, the Giver and gift of life in its continuous flow, first things in the day, essential priorities.

A traveler on the mystic path
is content with a loaf of bread;
By its light he may be turned
towards the Light of God.

Rumi

Aish, "life," is one ancient Arabic term for bread; accordingly, it is treated with reverence throughout the Muslim world. Before kneading dough, the baker blesses it with "Bismillah," and again before putting it in the oven. Mistreatment of bread is a sign of disrespect toward the Source of all sustenance. If a piece of bread is found on the ground, little time will pass before someone picks it up, kisses it, says "Bismillah," and sets it in a safe, clean place. In most homes bread is served at every meal, and is used to scoop up food; dunk into soup, stew or tea; or roll up with cheese, olives or herbs.

Mevlana describes a journey that begins with death and ends in Love:

Buried in the earth, a kernel of wheat
is transformed into tall stalks of grain.
Crushed in the mill, its value increases and it becomes bread, invigorating to the soul.
Ground in the teeth, it becomes spirit, mind, and the understanding of reason;
Lost in Love, that spirit delights the sowers after the sowing.

Rumi

Fermentation is the catalyst for dough's ultimate transformation — wheat dies and is brought to life by the breath of the yeast, as all creatures die and are brought to life by the grace and breath of God. This process of transformation of wheat into bread is a microcosm of the process of spiritual development in the Sufi tradition — inshallah, the death of concern with individual desires, resulting in the alignment of human will with Divine will, and the evolution of a human life into one well capable of consciously fulfilling its purpose of service to creation.

Salt is one of the most ancient preservatives, signifying incorruptibility, perpetuity, and purification; it is an emblem of the intention which gives significance to action.

The lovers of God go into the salt and are made entirely pure —
This spiritual salt made Muhammad more refined than all others...
This salt survives in his heritage; his heirs are with you. Seek them!

Rumi

When the dead ass fell into the salt-mine,
it left behind its asininity and mortality.

Rumi

Free will is the salt of devotion; otherwise, it would have no merit.

Rumi

The symbolic significance of salt runs deep in the traditions of the People of the Book. The covenant between God and the Jews was a covenant of salt, ritually remembered with salt.

Until recently, salt has been a precious commodity, rare and irreplaceable. Retrieved from the sea and from the depths of the earth, only a little is needed to transform and bring life to the flavor of food. No more than a little salt is needed to keep a living organism alive — and that little is absolutely necessary. Water constitutes close to 75% of the human body, salt less than 1%. That salt carries an electrical charge that maintains homeostasis, the fluid balance of the cells. Without it, water would flow through cell membranes uncontrolled, and they would burst.

This microcosm of cellular life reflects a subtler reality. All creatures are emanations of the creative power of God, the boundless ocean of Unity. The salt that we share with the earth — physical existence — gives rise to the compelling illusion of separation which the Sufi seeks to overcome, yet at the same time it is a gift, a mercy, and a creation of God. It is the boundary without which we cannot be whole in the physical world or in our human interactions.

...I am the drop that contains the ocean.
Its waves are amazing. It's beautiful to be a sea
hidden within an infinite drop.

Yunus Emre

Together, Mother bread and Father salt encompass the work of civilization — sowing, harvesting, milling; leavening and baking of grain; seeking and gathering salt from the sea and earth; trade and commerce in salt. Together they symbolize effort, creativity, intelligence and wisdom, and the cooperation that is necessary to bring them to the table and to keep peace in the world.

Islamic traditions of the esoteric bonding power of bread and salt date back to the early days of the Qur'anic revelation. It is said that a shared mouthful of bread was the meal shared by disciples of Jesus, in answer to their prayer for a sign of God's acceptance of their faith.

The hadith al-luqma was a tradition in which the knowledge of God was transmitted by means of a mouthful of bread, passed from Hasan al-Basri through a line of early Sufis down to Mansur al-Hallaj:

I entered the house of my shaikh who gave me a mouthful, saying I entered the house of my shaikh who gave me a mouthful, saying I entered the house of my shaikh who gave me a mouthful... Eat this which we give you for your well-being, for we may have partaken of the meal of the holy people, the custodians of graces; we have therefore shared in this blessing; you share, too, therefore, in their blessing.

Mansur al-Hallaj

Due to its consecrated nature, bread traditionally carries with it the blessing power of baraka, particularly when, as above, it is offered by one of exceptional spiritual merit. The traveler Ibn Jubair described a scene from 12th century Damascus:

When the pilgrims returned to the city, a vast concourse of men and women went forth to meet them, shaking their hands and touching them, giving dinars to the poor amongst them, and offering them food. One who witnessed it told me that many women met pilgrims and gave them bread which if they bit the women would snatch from their hands and hasten to eat it in order that they might be blessed in the pilgrims' having tasted it.

Ibn Jubair

Whenever Nizamuddin Auliya was asked for a token of baraka, he offered morsels of the bread baked in the kitchen of his khanqah; such bread came to acquire a phenomenal reputation. It is said that when Qazi Muhiyuddin Kashani was imprisoned, he sent the Shaikh a message asking him to pray for his release. The Shaikh sent him three loaves of bread, instructing him to eat one each day. On the third day, Muhiyuddin was released from the prison.

The sharing of bread and salt is a traditional basis of hospitality, a rite of friendship which nullifies antagonism and creates an indissoluble mutual obligation of protection.

In gratitude for your bread and salt,
I must preserve you from all danger.

Rumi

Fattoush - Bread Salad

2004-07-17T21:15:00.000+08:00

This salad is enjoyed throughout the Middle East, especially during Ramadan.

Fattoush
Bread Salad

Total time 45 minutes

4 peeled, seeded and diced cucumbers
2 tsp. salt
6 medium seeded and cubed tomatoes
2 seeded and finely chopped green bell pepper
16 thinly-sliced scallions
1/2 cup finely chopped parsley
1/4 cup finely chopped mint
1/4 cup, finely chopped coriander (optional)
4 cups small cubes or pieces stale bread (French or pita)
3/4 cup olive oil
1/2 cup lemon juice
1/2 cup black olives

Salt the diced cucumber, place in a colander and let drain for 30 minutes. Combine with the rest of the vegetables, herbs and bread. Whisk together the olive oil and lemon juice, pour over the salad, and toss. Garnish with black olives.

Tabbouleh - Bulgur Salad

2004-07-17T13:50:00.000+08:00

Whatever is simmered in grape syrup takes on the flavor of the grape
— whether carrots or apples, quinces or walnuts,
you will find the flavor of grape within.
When your knowledge is simmered in light,
contentious ones will gain light from your knowledge.

Rumi

Tabbouleh
Bulgur Salad

Total time 2-1/2+ hours
Preparation time 1/2 hour
Chilling 2+ hours

3 cups bulgur
2 cups seeded and finely diced cucumber
2 tsp. salt
3 cups seeded and chopped tomatoes
3 cups finely sliced scallions
2 cups finely chopped parsley
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh mint
2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. hot paprika
1/2-3/4 cup lemon juice
1/2-3/4 cup olive oil

Garnish :
Romaine lettuce leaves
Pita wedges
Black olives
Tomato wedges
Cucumber slices
Bell pepper slices

Put the bulgur in a large bowl, cover it with cold water and let it soak for 30 minutes while you prepare the vegetables. Put the diced cucumber into a sieve, sprinkle it with 2 tsp. salt, and let the excess juice drain away.

After 30 minutes, rinse off the cucumbers and set aside. Drain the bulgur, then return it to the bowl. Line the sieve with a clean, lint-free dish towel, put the bulgur back into the sieve, and squeeze out any excess water. Return the bulgur to the bowl again. Mix in the tomatoes, scallions, cucumber, parsley and mint, then sprinkle in the salt and paprika. Mix in 1/2 cup each of lemon juice and olive oil, then taste and add a little more oil or lemon juice to taste.

Refrigerate the tabbouleh for at least 2 hours, stirring occasionally, to allow the bulgur to absorb the oil and lemon juice. Adjust the flavorings again, then turn out onto a serving platter and surround the salad with romaine leaves and pita wedges. If you wish, you may also garnish the tabbouleh with olives, tomato wedges, and slices of cucumber and bell pepper.

Cacik or Mast-o-Khyar - Cucumber Yogurt Salad

2004-07-17T13:35:00.000+08:00

All food is soul food;
to treat it otherwise is to court indigestion,
both chronic & metaphysical.

Hakim Bey

Cacik or Mast-o-Khyar
Cucumber Yogurt Salad

Total time 1-1/2 hours
Preparation time 1/2 hour
Chilling 1+ hours

2 cups peeled, seeded and diced cucumber
2 tbsp. salt (for cucumbers)
1 quart yogurt
1 heaping tbsp. garlic
2 tbsp. dried or 1/4 cup fresh finely chopped mint
Salt to taste

Garnish:
Several sprigs fresh mint

Put the cucumbers into a colander, sprinkle with 2 tbsp. salt and let drain for 1/2 hour.

Combine the yogurt, garlic and mint in a mixing bowl, then rinse the cucumbers well and add them to the bowl. Taste and add salt as needed. Cover and refrigerate for at least an hour before serving, garnished with sprigs of mint.

Baba Ghanoush - Eggplant Cream Dip

2004-07-17T13:21:00.000+08:00

Earth — a great tablecloth spread with delicacies out there on the veranda.When they ask you to join the feast, think for a moment:do you deserve it? What about it?

Nasir-i Khusraw

Baba Ghanoush
Eggplant Cream Dip

Total time 1-1/2 hours

4-6 eggplants (3 lbs. total weight)
1/2 cup lemon juice
1/2 cup tahini or yogurt
2 tbsp. finely chopped garlic
1 tsp. salt

Garnishes:
2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
Several sprigs parsley

Preheat the oven to 400F. Slice the eggplants lengthwise, brush them with olive oil, lay them flesh side down on baking sheets, and roast them for about an hour, until they are soft. When they have cooled down, remove the skins, chop the flesh coarsely and place it n a food processor. Add lemon juice, tahini or yogurt, garlic and salt, and puree. Spread onto a shallow serving dish, drizzle with olive oil and garnish with parsley. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.

Hummus - Chickpea Cream Dip

2004-07-16T00:36:00.000+08:00

Yes, you can get hummus at most grocery stores these days — but nothing matches the flavor or texture when they are home made.

Hummus
Chickpea Cream Dip

Soak chickpeas Overnight
Cook chickpeas 1 hour
Final preparation 15 minutes
Total second-day time 1-1/4 hours

1 cup dried or 2 cans, drained chickpeas
1/2 cup lemon juice
1/2 cup tahini
2 tbsp. finely chopped garlic
1 tsp. salt

Garnish
2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
2 tsp. paprika
Several sprigs parsley

Cover chickpeas with water and soak overnight. The next day, drain them and remove any loose skins. Cover with fresh water, bring to a boil and simmer until done, about an hour. Don't add salt to the water; this makes the chickpeas tough. Drain and save 1/2 cup of the liquid. Blend the chickpeas in a food processor, then add lemon juice, tahini, garlic and salt. For a softer consistency, add cooking water (or fresh water for canned chickpeas).

Spread onto a shallow serving dish and drizzle with olive oil. Place paprika between the palms of the hands and, rubbing hands together, dust it over the surface of the hummus. Garnish with parsley sprigs and serve at room temperature with pita bread. Hummus may be stored for several days in the refrigerator.

Indian Tomato Soup

2004-07-16T00:23:00.000+08:00

Bewilderment makes you silent,
covers the kettle,
and fills you with the boiling of Love.

Rumi

Indian Tomato Soup

Total time 45 minutes

1/4 cup cooking oil
2 cups finely chopped onion
2 tsp. dried red chili, or to taste
2 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. turmeric
1/2 tsp. cardamom
1/4 tsp. cloves
6 cups tomato juice
6 cups seeded and chopped fresh tomatoes

Garnish
1 tbsp. yogurt per bowl

In a large soup pot, heat the oil, add the onion and fry for 5 minutes, until golden. Sprinkle in the spices, stir well to combine with the onions, and fry for 2 more minutes. Add the tomato juice and chopped tomatoes, bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for a half-hour.

Ladle into soup bowls and garnish with a swirl of yogurt.

Ramadan Khanji

2004-07-16T00:19:00.000+08:00

A South Asian Ramadan suhur (dawn) and iftar (fast-breaking) soup prepared by Bawa Muhaiyaddeen in enormous quantities for his students and guests.

Ramadan Khanji

Soaking Overnight
Total second-day time 1-1/2 hours

1 cup chick peas
6 cups water
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1-1/2 cups rice
1/4 tsp. fenugreek
1/2" length stick cinnamon, broken up
2-1/2 cups water
1 cup coconut milk
2 tbsp. finely chopped ginger
2 tbsp. finely chopped garlic
1/2 tsp. cardamom
1/2 tsp. Cinnamon
Pinch ground cloves
1-1/2 tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. powdered ginger
1 tsp. onion powder
2 tsp. Salt
1/2 tsp. Turmeric
3 tbsp., halved cashews
1 cup raisins
4 cups water

Cover the chickpeas with cold water and soak overnight. The next day, drain them and put them in a pot with 6 cups of cold water. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer until they are soft, about 1-1-1/2 hours. When they are done, remove any skins that have floated to the top of the water, drain well and set aside.

In another pot, put the rice, fenugreek, cinnamon and 2-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes.

While the rice cooks, put the coconut milk into a large pot over medium heat. Crush the ginger and garlic together and add to the pot, along with the powdered spices, cashews and raisins. Mix well, then pour in 4 cups of hot water. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes.

Fluff up the rice, and add it and the chickpeas to the pot, stirring well. Bring 4 cups of water to a boil and add it to the pot. Taste and adjust the salt, and add more water if needed; the khanji should have the consistency of a thick soup. Simmer for another 10-15 minutes and dish out into soup bowls.

Soto Ayam - Javanese Chicken Soup

2004-07-16T00:08:00.000+08:00

Soto Ayam can be part of a large meal, or can be a full meal served with lontong.

Soto Ayam
Javanese Chicken Soup

Total time 1 hour

10 macadamia or kemiri nuts
2 cups finely chopped onion
2 tbsp. minced garlic
2 tbsp. minced ginger
1 tsp. shrimp paste
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 tbsp. ground coriander
2 tsp. turmeric
1 tsp. cumin
2 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. salt
16 cups (1 gallon) chicken stock
2 lbs. boneless chicken breast
2 bay leaves
1 tbsp. tamarind paste
3 cups rice vermicelli
2 tbsp. lemon juice
2 tbsp. fish sauce

Garnish
4 eggs, hard boiled and quarteredvv2 cups thinly sliced scallions
2 cups mung bean sprouts
Chili paste
1/2 cup, finely chopped parsley
2 cups crispy fried onions

In a blender or food processor, combine the macadamia nuts, onion, garlic, ginger and shrimp paste until smooth. In a large soup pot over medium heat, heat the vegetable oil, then add the aromatic paste and fry for 2 minutes. Add the coriander, turmeric, cumin and pepper and continue to fry until the aroma mellows.

Add the bay leaves, pour in the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Add the chicken breasts and poach for 15 minutes, until they are cooked through. Remove the chicken breasts from the broth, rinse them to cool them quickly, shred by hand lengthwise along the grain, and return to the soup.

Blend in a little of the stock with the tamarind paste, then pour it into the soup. Add the noodles and cook for another 5 minutes, or until they are cooked through. Turn off the heat, stir in the lemon juice, and pour into a tureen.

Place the garnishes in separate bowls around the tureen. Each guests may put an egg quarter, some scallions and bean sprouts on the bottom of the soup dish, ladle in the soup, turn up the heat with more chili paste if desired, then sprinkle it over with parsley and fried onions.

Fatta - Lamb Broth with Bread

2004-07-15T23:52:00.000+08:00

A full basket of bread balances on top of your head,
yet you seek your bread from door to door.
Mind your head! Leave this confusion!
Why knock at every one else's door?
Go, knock at the door of the heart!

Rumi

Fatta
Lamb Broth with Bread

This soup is often prepared during Id and Ramadan, when there is much lamb and many bones are available to enrich the stock.

Total time 2-1/2 hours

2 lbs. boneless lamb, in 1" cubes
3-4 lbs., cracked lamb bones
16 cups (1 gallon) water
1 tbsp. salt
2 tsp. peppercorns
1 cup rinsed rice
6 rounds or 1/2" slices pita bread or Italian bread
1/2 cup unsalted butter
2 tbsp. minced garlic.
or 2 tsp. ground cardamom
1/2 cup vinegar

Garnish
1/2 cup yogurt, or 1/2 cup parsley

Put the lamb and bones into a kettle, cover with water and bring to a boil. Skim off the foam, add salt and pepper, lower the heat and simmer until the lamb is tender, 1-1/2-2 hours. Remove and discard the bones. Add rice and simmer for 15 more minutes. Toast the bread and layer it in a serving bowl. Heat the butter in a saute pan, then fry the garlic or cardamom for 30 seconds. Pour in the vinegar, bring to a boil, then pour evenly over the bread. Ladle the soup into the dish and garnish with swirls of yogurt or with parsley.

Harira - Moroccan Ramadan Soup

2004-07-15T23:41:00.000+08:00

This thick, peppery soup is a symbol of the Moroccan way of fasting. Almost every Moroccan, every evening, every Ramadan, breaks the fast with fresh milk and dates, followed by a bowl of harira, often eaten with a special wooden spoon called a mgurfa. Harira is traditionally made with a lump of dough from the previous day's bread, and according to many Moroccan cooks, tastes best when made on a traditional wood-burning stove.

Harira
Moroccan Ramadan Soup

Sponge preparation 5 minutes
Fermentation Overnight
Total second-day time 2 hours

3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1-1/2 cups warm water
1 tsp. yeast
3/4 cup chickpeas
2 lbs. boneless lamb or chicken,
in bite-sized pieces
1/4 cup cooking oil
4 tbsp. unsalted butter
1-1/2 cups finely chopped onions
1/2 tsp. crushed saffron
1/2 cup finely chopped parsley
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh coriander
1-1/2 tbsp. salt
1 tbsp. freshly ground pepper
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. ground ginger
1 cup lentils, picked over and rinsed
9 cups water or stock
2 lbs. (3-1/2 cups) pureed tomatoes
2 tbsp. tomato paste in 1/4 cup hot water
1 cup vermicelli, broken into 3" pieces
3 lemons, quartered

Combine the flour, water and yeast in a bowl, cover with a damp towel, and let ferment overnight. Put the chickpeas in a bowl, cover with cold water, and let soak overnight.

Combine the meat, oil, butter, and onions in a soup pot, and cook over medium heat for 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the herbs and spices and cook for another 5 minutes, then stir in the lentils and drained chickpeas. Bring 9 cups of water to a boil and pour it into the pot; scrape the bottom, lower the heat, cover, and let simmer for one hour, stirring occasionally. As the soup thickens, stir more frequently; if it becomes too thick, add more hot water one cup at a time.

After the first hour, add the tomatoes and tomato paste to the soup and simmer for another 15 minutes. Add the flour mixture, blend into the soup, and let cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently; then add the vermicelli and cook for another 10 minutes, stirring frequently. As soon as the vermicelli is cooked, serve the harira with lemon wedges.

Yayla Corbasi - Turkish Barley Soup

2004-07-15T16:05:00.000+08:00

The form of fire is beneath the cauldron.
The meaning of fire is the soul of the cauldron.
Its form outside, its meaning inside —
The soul's beloved is within the soul itself,
like blood in the veins.

Rumi

Yayla Corbasi
Turkish Barley Soup

Soaking Overnight
Total second-day time 1-1/4 hours

3/4 cup barley
6 tbsp. unsalted butter
2 cups coarsely chopped onions
12 cups stock
1 tbsp. salt
2 tsp. pepper
3 cups yogurt
1/4 cup, coarsely chopped parsley
1/4 cup fresh mint, coarsely chopped, or 1 tbsp. dried

In a bowl, cover the barley with cold water and soak overnight.

In a kettle over medium heat, melt the butter and fry the onions for 5 minutes, until golden. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Drain the barley and add it to the pot with the salt and pepper. Lower the heat and simmer for an hour, until the barley is tender. Whisk a cup of broth into the yogurt, then add this to the soup. Stir constantly until the soup is hot again, but not boiling. Turn off the heat and stir in the parsley and mint.

Mercimek Corbasi - Turkish Lentil Soup

2004-07-15T16:02:00.000+08:00

Lentils were said by the Prophet to increase sympathy and humility. For this reason, lentil soup is always the first course of dinner in Rufai dergahs.

Mercimek Corbasi - Turkish Lentil Soup

Total time 1-1/4 hours

3 cups lentils, picked over and rinsed
16 cups (1 gallon) stock or water
2 tsp. salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter or olive oil
2 cups, finely chopped onions
1 tsp. salt
1 cup bulgur
2 tsp. pepper
1/2 tsp. cayenne
2 lbs. (4 cups) tomatoes, seeded and chopped
3 tbsp. tomato paste
1 cup finely chopped parsley
1-1/2 lbs. cleaned and chopped spinach
3 tbsp. lemon juice or vinegar

In a large soup pot over medium heat, bring 12 cups of water to a boil. Add the lentils and 2 tsp. salt, lower the heat and let simmer for 30 minutes.

In another pot, over medium heat, melt the butter, add the onions and 1 tsp. salt, and stir until the onions are uniformly coated. Lower the heat and let the onions cook, covered, for 3 minutes. Add the bulgur, pepper and cayenne, and stir constantly for several minutes until the mixture is browned. Add to the pot the tomatoes, tomato paste, parsley, and 4 cups of water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and let simmer for 15 minutes. Pour this mixture into the soup pot with the lentils and simmer, covered, for 40 minutes, until the lentils and bulgur are soft. Add more water if a thinner soup is preferred.

Add the spinach on top of the soup, replace the lid, and let steam for 2 minutes, until the spinach is just wilted. Stir the spinach into the soup and cook for another 2 minutes. Turn off the heat, swirl in the lemon juice or vinegar, and serve immediately.

Tutmaj - Meat Broth With Noodles

2004-07-15T15:55:00.000+08:00

When you make soup,
add plenty of water and be mindful of your neighbors.

A Tradition of the Prophet

One night, seducing Love came beside me:
"Eat! In the name of God! I have cooked a tutmaj for you!"

Rumi

Tutmaj
Meat Broth With Noodles

An 11th century legend describes the invention of tutmaj during Alexander the Great's search for the Fountain of Youth. When his soldiers complained to him, "Bizni tutma ach" — "Don't keep us hungry!" — Alexander sought the advice of Plato, Socrates and Aristotle, and tutmaj was born. Mevlana Rumi wrote often of tutmaj, i.e. noodles, in his parables of every day life, and while it's not possible to know Kira Hatun's secret recipe for her husband's tutmaj, variations on the theme of meat broth with noodles exist in modern Central Asian cuisine. The word survives in Armenian and Serbia-Croatian to describe a thick, peppery soup of broth or yogurt with noodles

Total time 1 hour

12 cups lamb or beef stock
1 lb. ground lamb or beef
2 eggs
1 tbsp. salt
1/2 tbsp. pepper
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
4 tbsp. unsalted butter
2 tbsp. minced garlic
3 cups egg noodles or broken linguine
2 eggs
1/2 cup yogurt
1/2 cup water

Garnish:
12 tbsp. (1-1/2 sticks) unsalted butter
2 cups finely chopped onion
6 tbsp. dried mint

In a large soup pot, bring the stock to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the stock while you assemble the meatballs. In a large mixing bowl, combine the ground meat, 2 eggs, salt and pepper. Work the ingredients together with your hands, then form into walnut-sized balls. Melt the butter in a frying pan, dredge the meatballs in flour, lightly brown them in the pan, then add them to the stock. Simmer for a half-hour. Add the garlic and noodles and simmer for another 10 minutes, until the noodles are fully cooked.

Fry the chopped onion very gently in butter until golden. Sprinkle in the mint, and fry for another minute.

Beat 2 eggs together with the yogurt and a half-cup of water. Pour this mixture in a thin stream into the soup, stirring constantly in a gentle circular motion, in a single direction. Adjust the seasonings, then transfer the soup to a large serving bowl or tureen. Pour the hot onion and mint butter over each individual bowl of soup as you serve it.

Simit

2004-07-15T15:50:00.000+08:00

These dry biscuits with sesame seeds are sold by street vendors throughout the Middle East. In Turkey, Kandil Simidi are included on the table spread for Kandil Geceleri — celebrations of the Prophet's conception, birthday, Ascent, the revelation of his mission, and the Night of Power — when the mosques are lit throughout the night.

Simit

Total time 2 hours
Dough preparation 45 minutes
Baking 30 minutes
Cooling 45 minutes

Dough
3-1/4 cups all purpose flour
3/4 tsp. salt
2-1/4 tsp. baking powder
3/4 cup (1-1/2 sticks) unsalted butter
3/4 cup olive oil
6 tbsp. milk
1 large egg
6 tbsp. water

Topping
Milk or lightly beaten egg
Sesame seeds

Preheat the oven to 400F. Combine the flour, salt and baking powder in a mixing bowl. In another bowl, whisk together the butter, olive, milk, egg, and water. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and pour in the liquid. Stir together to form a soft dough. Dust your hands with flour and roll walnut-sized pieces of dough into "snakes," 8" long by 1/2" thick. Fold each snake in half and twist it along its length. As you wish, pinch together the ends of each "snake" to form a circle, or leave them straight. Place them an inch apart on a lightly greased or parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush them with the milk or egg, sprinkle with sesame seeds, and bake on the center rack of the oven for a half-hour, or until golden. Cool them on wire racks and store in a tightly closed container. Serve with tea or coffee, yogurt, cheese or jam.

Makes 24 simit.

Khoubz Araby or Pita

2004-07-15T15:40:00.000+08:00

My poems are like Egyptian bread.
Night passes, and you can't eat it any more!
So, eat it while it is fresh
Before the dust settles on it.

Rumi

Khoubz Araby or Pita
Pocket Bread

Total time 3-1/2 hours
Dough preparation 20 minutes
First rising 2 hours
Forming and second rising 45 minutes
Baking 20 minutes

1-1/2 cups water
1/2 tsp. dry yeast
1 tsp. salt
3-1/2 cups all-purpose flour

Sprinkle the yeast over the water in a large mixing bowl. Let it rest for 5 minutes or until it begins to bubble. Stir well, then stir in the salt and half of the flour. Add more flour, a quarter-cup at a time, until you have a thick mass that pulls away from the sides of the bowl.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Sprinkle over with another 1/4 cup of flour and knead for about 7 minutes, adding more flour as needed, until the dough is smooth and elastic.

Shape the dough into a ball and let it rest on the work surface. Clean out the mixing bowl, butter it lightly, and return the dough to the bowl. Turn it around several times to coat it with butter, then cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a damp towel, and put it in a warm place (about 80?F). Let the dough rise until doubled in volume.

Preheat the oven to 400F.

When the dough has risen, punch it down, remove it from the bowl, and knead for 2 minutes to expel any air bubbles. Divide the dough into twelve pieces with a knife. Form each piece into a tight ball, place on a lightly floured surface, cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel, and let rise for a half-hour.

Dust the top of the loaves with flour and flatten them into 6-7" circles. Place them on lightly floured baking sheets, four loaves to a sheet, and cover two of the sheets with a damp towel. Bake one sheet of pitas at a time. Place on the center rack of the oven and bake for about 5 minutes, until the bottoms are just barely golden and the loaves have puffed up. Do not over-bake; these loaves should be soft, not crusty. Serve hot. Makes 12 loaves.

Luchis

2004-07-15T15:30:00.000+08:00

O God, give us not wheat but bread,
and give us not a vine but grapes.

Khwaja Abdullah Ansari

Luchis
Similar to puris but unsweetened, luchis are traditionally prepared on the fourteenth of Shaban for distribution, along with halvah, to the poor in Pakistani communities.

Total time 1-1/4 hours

6 cups flour
1-1/2 tbsp. baking powder
1-1/2 tsp. salt
2-1/4 cups milk
Vegetable oil for frying

In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, baking powder and salt. Make a well in the center and pour in the milk. Stir until a soft dough is formed, then turn out onto a smooth surface and knead until it is smooth. Cover with a damp cloth and set aside for thirty minutes.

Shape the dough into two-inch balls, then flatten each one into a flat circle about five inches across. Pour the vegetable oil in a heavy frying pan to one inch depth. Heat the oil, then fry the dough patties on both sides until each side is golden brown. Remove to a towel to drain off the extra oil, then serve warm.

Puri - Indian Fried Bread

2004-07-15T15:19:00.000+08:00

Grind the flour and make stuffed puri;
Put in it heavenly fruits and sugar,
the seven qualities of God must be taken in the body
As the seven ingredients fill the puri, oh sister.
Ya bism Allah, hu hu Allah.

Bandanawaz Gisudaraz

Puri
Indian Fried Bread

Puffy breads popular on holidays throughout India and Pakistan, puris are traditionally eaten with shir-kand or kheer. This recipe makes two dozen.

Total time 1 hour

3 cups whole wheat pastry flour, or 1/2 whole wheat/1/2 all-purpose flour
1 tsp. salt
3 tbsp. vegetable oil or melted ghee
1/2-1 cup water, or 4 tbsp. honey mixed with 1/4 cup water
About 3 cups vegetable oil for frying

Optional Spice Blend:
1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp. turmeric
1/2 tsp. cumin powder

Blend the flour and salt, then add oil or ghee, rubbing it in with the fingers. Add 1/2 cup of water or the diluted honey, and continue mixing until you have a smooth dough. Add more water if needed to achieve a silky consistency. Lightly oil a work surface and knead the dough for 15 minutes.

Divide the dough into 24 equal parts. Roll each one into a ball and flatten it between your palms. Put a little more oil onto the work surface and roll each piece into an even 4" circle. Cover these circles with a slightly damp dish towel to keep them from drying out.

Heat the vegetable oil in a frying pan over medium heat. To test the temperature of the oil, drop a little piece of dough into the pan; if it rises immediately to the surface, the oil is hot enough for frying. Slip a puri into the oil. It should puff right up and float to the top. Using a slotted spoon or spatula, flip the puri gently; continue to cook and flip until both sides are golden brown. When the puri is cooked, lift it up with the slotted spoon, let the oil drain off into the pan, and place on paper towels or a lint-free dish towel to absorb any excess oil.

For spicy puris, mix the spices in with the flour and salt, and use only water to make the dough. For sumptuous puris, substitute yogurt for half of the water.

Naan - Teardrop Bread

2004-07-15T15:07:00.000+08:00

It is He who gives sustenance to wheat;
How could He then let your trust in Him be wasted?
For love of wheat you have become separated
From the One Who sent that wheat from Heaven.

Rumi

Naan
Teardrop Bread

A staple of Central and South Asia, naan is traditionally baked in a tandoor oven; stuck to the side of the oven wall, the dough sags into a teardrop shape. This recipe, baked in a conventional oven, is shaped before baking.

Total time 4+ hours
Dough preparation 30 minutes
Rising time 3+ hours
Baking time 45 minutes

2 tsp. yeast
1/4 cup warm water
8 cups all purpose flour
2 tbsp. sugar
2 tsp. salt
4 eggs
1/2 cup yogurt
2-1/2 cups milk
1/2 cup butter (1 stick), melted

Garnishes (optional)
Poppy, sesame or cumin seeds, or chopped scallions or chives

Sprinkle the yeast over the water and set aside for several minutes until bubbly. Combine the flour, sugar and salt in a large mixing bowl. Beat the eggs, then blend in the yogurt and milk. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and pour in the yeast and liquid ingredients. Stir in one direction until you have a soft dough that is hard to stir.

Spread some melted butter over a smooth surface. Grease your hands with more butter, gather up the dough into a ball, and turn it out onto the greased surface. Knead the dough for 10-15 minutes until it is smooth and pliable, re-buttering your hands occasionally. Clean out the mixing bowl and butter it lightly; then put in the dough, cover it with a damp dish towel, and set aside to rise for at least 3 hours.

An hour before baking, preheat the oven to 450F. Before you begin to work with the dough, put in one or two baking sheets — however many will fit on the center rack of the oven.

Knead the dough briefly and divide it into 12 equal portions. Lightly greasing your hands with melted butter, and regreasing them as needed, flatten the pieces of dough and form them into teardrop shapes, 6" long by 3-1/2" at the widest point, and about 1/4" thick. Place several loaves about an inch apart on each baking sheet and bake for 6 minutes, or until they are firm and just slightly colored. Turn on the broiler to brown the tops of the loaves, then remove from the oven.

Serve fresh and hot. Naan are delicious plain, or before baking you may lightly brush them with butter and sprinkle with poppy, sesame or cumin seeds, chopped scallions or chives.

Corn Bread

2004-07-15T15:04:00.000+08:00

You can eat this bread as soon as it comes out of the oven – be sure to have plenty of butter, honey and maple syrup on hand for decoration.

Corn Bread

Total time 1 hour

2 cups all-purpose flour
1-1/4 cups corn meal
6 tbsp. Sugar
2 tbsp. baking powder
1-1/4 tsp. Salt
2 eggs
1-1/2 cups milk or buttermilk, or 1 cup yogurt or sour cream and 1/2 cup milk
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) melted butter
1/2 cup, minced onions (optional)
2 tsp. dry, or 2 tbsp. fresh dill (optional)

Preheat the oven to 375F. Combine the dry ingredients in a large mixing bowl. In a smaller bowl, beat the eggs, then blend in the milk (or milk and yogurt or sour cream for a richer bread), and melted butter. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients, and pour in the liquid. Stir well. For a savory bread, add onions and dill to the batter.

Generously butter a 9x13" baking pan and pour in the batter. Bake on the center rack for 30-40 minutes, until the top is light brown.

Chapati - Indian Skillet Bread

2004-07-15T14:51:00.000+08:00

As ghee pervades all milk,
So does the Lord pervade the creation.
Many the talkers,
many the listeners to this theme;
But few are those who act
and churn the body
To get the all-pervading Lord.

Kabir

Chapati
Indian Skillet Bread

Total time 3-3-1/2 hours
Dough preparation 1/2 hour
Rising 2 hours
Cooking 1-1-1/2 hours

6 cups sifted whole wheat pastry flour or 1/2/1/2 whole wheat /all purpose flour
2 tsp. Salt
6 tbsp. Vegetable oil
1-3/4cups warm water, plus more as needed
1 cup, melted ghee or clarified butter

In a large mixing bowl, stir together the flour and salt. Sprinkle in the oil and rub it into the flour with your hands. Make a well in the center of the flour, pour in the water, and mix together by hand until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Turn out onto a lightly oiled surface and knead for 15 minutes. Clean out the mixing bowl, butter it lightly, and return the dough to the bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a damp dish towel and let the dough rest for 2 hours.

Divide the dough into 36 pieces, then work with only 3 pieces at a time — the chapatis should not dry out before cooking. With lightly floured hands, roll each piece into a ball, flatten slightly, and place on a lightly floured surface. Roll out the dough into evenly flat 6" rounds. Roll out two more chapatis, then begin to cook.

Heat a cast-iron griddle over medium-high heat, then place a chapati on the griddle. Cook for 30 seconds, then flip it over, cook for another 30 seconds and flip again. The chapati should puff up and become freckled. When this occurs, remove it from the griddle to a towel-lined basket, brush lightly with ghee or clarified butter, and cover to keep warm. Stack the breads on top of each other. When the first three are done, reduce the heat under the griddle and roll out the next 3 chapatis; then turn up the heat and cook them. Continue rolling and cooking, rolling and cooking, until the dough is gone.

If possible, allow two people for chapati making — one to roll and one to cook the chapatis. They should be the last thing prepared for an Indian meal so that they can be served hot. Makes 24-36 breads.

Ksra - Moroccan Anise Bread

2004-07-15T14:47:00.000+08:00

A loaf with a blooming aroma, well-suited to accompany any North African meal. In Algeria, it is known as mattoua

Total time 4-5 hours
Dough preparation 1/2 hour
Rising 2-3 hours
Baking 40 minutes
Cooling 45 minutes

1/4 cup warm water
2 tsp. sugar
2 tsp. dry yeast
3-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup whole wheat flour
2 tsp. salt 4 tbsp. butter
1-1/4 cup milk
2 tbsp. orange flower water
1 tbsp. anise seeds
1 tbsp. sesame seeds
2 tbsp. cornmeal

Pour the warm water into a small bowl, add the sugar and stir to dissolve. Sprinkle the yeast over the water and set aside.

Combine the flours and salt in a large mixing bowl. In a small saucepan, melt the butter, then add the milk and heat until it just barely warms to skin temperature. Make a well in the center of the flour and pour in the milk and yeast mixtures, orange flower water, anise and sesame seeds. Stir until you have a mass of dough that pulls away from the sides of the bowl; add more warm water if necessary, a tablespoon at a time, to make the dough workable.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead vigorously for 10 minutes or more, until it becomes smooth and elastic. Divide the dough in half, form into balls, and set aside to rest while you lightly butter a bowl. Place one ball of dough into the bowl and work into a cone shape with your hands. Transfer the cone to a baking sheet lightly dusted with cornmeal. Flatten the cone to form a 6" circle with a slightly raised center. Butter the bowl again and repeat the process with the second ball of dough. Cover the loaves with a damp towel and let rise for 2-3 hours, until almost doubled in bulk.

Preheat the oven to 400F. Make a pleasing pattern of fork pricks on the upper surface of the bread. Bake for 10 minutes at 400F, then reduce the heat to 300?F and bake for another 30-40 minutes, until the loaves sound hollow when tapped on the bottom. Cool on wire racks for 45 minutes; then serve the ksra warm, cut into wedges.

Coreg

2004-07-15T14:42:00.000+08:00

Similar to simit, but leavened with yeast instead of baking powder, these dry Anatolian crackers are fragrant with mahleb, the ground kernel of the black cherry.

Total time 5 hours
Dough preparation 30 minutes
Rising time 2 hours
Baking time 45 minutes-1 hour
Cooling 2+ hours

Dough
2 tsp. yeast
1 tsp. sugar
1 cup warm water
3-1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 tsp. salt
1 tsp. mahleb
1/2 cup butter
1 tbsp. cooking oil
1/2-1 cup cold water

Topping
1 egg, beaten with 1 tbsp. water
Sesame seeds

Sprinkle the yeast and sugar over the warm water in a small bowl. Let this mixture sit until it begins to bubble, about 5 minutes.

Combine the flour, salt and mahleb in a large mixing bowl. Add the butter and work it into the flour using your fingers. Make a well in the center and pour in the yeast mixture, cooking oil and 1/2 cup of cold water. Stir together to form a soft dough, adding more cold water if necessary. Knead the dough on a lightly floured surface until it is smooth and pliable. Clean and lightly butter the mixing bowl, put in the dough and turn it around to coat it thoroughly. Cover the bowl with a damp towel and let the dough rise for 2 hours.

Preheat the oven to 400F.

Knead the dough for several minutes to eliminate any air pockets. Break off walnut-sized pieces, roll each into a ball, then roll them between your palms to form a foot-long snake. Fold each snake in two, then twist gently and pinch the ends together. Put the choreg onto a lightly greased or parchment-lined baking sheet, brush with egg glaze, and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Set on top of the hot oven to rise for 15 minutes, then bake for 15 minutes, until golden. Pile up the choregs onto a single baking sheet. When all are finished, turn off the oven, open the door and put the baking sheet back into the oven. Let the choregs sit there until they are completely dry and cool, then pack in an airtight container.

Pide - Turkish Bayram Bread

2004-07-15T14:35:00.000+08:00

When Hasan al-Basri was asked whether sadaqa (sedekah) was better than recitation of the Qur'an, he related the tradition: "A piece of bread and a handful of dates given in alms is more beneficial than reciting the Qur'an a thousand times."

Rumi

Pide
Turkish Bayram Bread

Not to be confused with the pocket bread, pide is a sweet round loaf fragrant with sesame and fennel.

Total time 5 hours
Dough preparation 1/2 hour
Rising 2-1/2 hours
Baking 1 hour
Cooling 1+ hours

1 cup warm water, at skin temperature
2 tsp. yeast
3 tbsp. sugar
4 tbsp. butter
3/4 cup milk
4-3/4 cups all purpose flour
1 tbsp. salt

Topping:
1 egg
1 tbsp. milk
3 tbsp. sesame seeds
1-1/2 tsp. fennel seeds

Sprinkle the yeast over the warm water in a small bowl. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat, then stir in the milk and sugar and warm to skin temperature.

Combine the flour and salt in a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the center, then pour in all of the liquid ingredients. Stir until the mixture forms a dough that pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 10 minutes or more, until the dough is smooth and resilient. Clean out the mixing bowl, butter it lightly, and return the dough to the bowl. Cover and let rise for 1-1/2 hours.

Punch down the dough, knead it briefly, then form it into a tight ball. Place the ball in the center of a lightly buttered 12" round baking dish, then flatten the dough until it covers all but 1" around the edge of the dish. Cover with a clean damp towel and let rise again for another hour.

Preheat the oven to 375F.

Beat together the egg and milk, then gently brush it over the surface of the dough, the sides as well as the top. (Save any excess egg wash for another project.) Evenly sprinkle the sesame and fennel seeds over the dough, and pat them down gently with dry hands so that they will adhere to the egg wash. (Be careful not to deflate the dough. Using a sharp knife or razor blade, make several shallow cuts in a pleasing pattern over the surface of the bread.

Bake the loaf for 40 minutes, or until it turns a golden brown. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely before serving.

Khoubz Markouk or Lavash - Mountain Bread

2004-07-15T14:31:00.000+08:00

Do not let your passion for the Beloved
be less than your hunger for bread.

Rumi

Khoubz Markouk or Lavash
Mountain Bread

Popular throughout the Eastern Mediterranean, Iran and the Caucasus, this bread is traditionally made in a tannur, a pottery oven set in the ground

Total rising and baking time 2-1/2 hours
Cooling 1+ hour

1-1/4 cups warm water
2 tsp. yeast
1 tsp. sugar
3 tbsp. olive oil 3+ cups all-purpose flour
2 tsp. salt
1/4 cup sesame seeds
1/4 cup poppy seeds

In a small bowl, dissolve the sugar in warm water, sprinkle in the yeast, and set it aside until it bubbles. Combine the flour and salt in a large mixing bowl, make a well in the center, and pour in the yeast mixture and olive oil. Stir vigorously in one direction, until the ingredients are well-blended and the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead for at least 10 minutes, adding more flour a tablespoon at a time, until the dough is smooth. Clean out the bowl, oil it lightly, then put the ball of dough into the bowl and cover it with plastic wrap or a damp dish towel. Set in a warm spot to rise until the dough is twice its original size, from 1-2 hours.

Preheat the oven to 450F and position two racks in the center. Since lavash is thin, the racks can be close together.

Knead the dough briefly and divide it into 12-16 pieces. Sprinkle the work surface and a rolling pin with flour, then roll each piece into a thin 8x3" square. Peel the dough off the surface and transfer it to a lightly floured baking sheet. Prick holes in the dough with a fork, brush or spray it lightly with water, then sprinkle with sesame or poppy seeds, or a combination of the two. Three pieces of dough should fit comfortably on a large baking sheet. Once the first sheet is full, put it in the oven to bake for 3-5 minutes, until it is golden brown; continue to roll and bake until all are finished. Let the breads cool completely before serving with soup, cheese or spreads

Khoubz al-Riqaq - Thin Arabian Pan Bread

2004-07-15T14:27:00.000+08:00

Khoubz al-Riqaq
Thin Arabian Pan Bread
This unyeasted, fried whole wheat bread is often eaten with tea or as part of a Ramadan suhur meal, just before sunrise.

Total time 4 hours
Dough preparation 30 minutes
Resting 3 hours
Frying 30 minutes

6 cups whole wheat flour (if available, use chapati flour)
2 tsp. salt 3 cups water
Vegetable oil for frying

Stir together the flour and salt, then add the water. Mix and knead until a smooth dough is formed. Continue kneading for at least 15 minutes, then remove the dough to a lightly oiled bowl, cover with a damp dish towel, and let it rest for 3 hours. (Do not skimp on the resting time; the gluten needs to relax so that you can work with it more easily.)

Divide the dough into twelve equal portions and form them into balls. Flatten them into thin rounds about 6" across, then cover them with a lightly damp dish towel and let them rest for another half hour.

Lightly grease a heavy skillet and heat it over medium heat. One at a time, cook the loaves for about 2 minutes per side, until they are golden brown, then remove them to a serving bowl lined with a dry cloth to keep warm until serving time. Continue baking the loaves, regreasing the pan as needed with a lightly oiled cloth. If you do not plan to serve them for an hour or more, put the bowl into the oven and turn the light on. For a special and more substantial treat, an egg may be broken across the bread as it cooks, and a little sugar and cardamom sprinkled on top.

Country Bread

2004-07-14T17:16:00.000+08:00

How should bread give strength
until it is broken?

Rumi

Country Bread

Sponge preparation 10 minutes
Fermentation Overnight
Total baking-day time 5-3/4 hours
Dough preparation s 30 minutes
First rising 2 hours
Resting and forming 40 minutes
Final rising 1-1/2 hours
Baking 45 minutes
Cooling 20 minutes

Sponge
3/4 cup warm water
1/2 tsp. dry yeast
1 cup whole wheat or all-purpose flour

Dough
2-1/4 cups warm water
1/2 tsp. dry yeast
1 tbsp. salt
6-1/2 cups all-purpose or bread flour (approximately)
1 tbsp. butter (for rising bowl

Preparing the sponge:
In a large mixing bowl, combine 3/4 cup lukewarm water (barely warm on the skin) and yeast and set aside for 5 minutes. Add the whole wheat flour and mix for 5 minutes, always stirring in the same direction. Scrape the sides of the bowl with a spatula, cover with plastic wrap, and let the sponge ferment for at least 2 hours, or, preferably, overnight.

Mixing, kneading and first rising:
A little at a time, incorporate 2-1/4 cups of water into the sponge, always stirring in the same direction. Sprinkle in the yeast and set aside to rest for 5 minutes. Stir in the salt. Stir in the flour one cup at a time. After 4 cups of flour have been added, the dough will become difficult to stir. Keep working at it until you can't stir anymore; then sprinkle 1/2 cup flour over a smooth surface, turn the dough out onto it, and knead the dough vigorously. Push against it, away from your body, with the heels of both hands; fold the top over, turn the dough a quarter-turn, and repeat the process. Continue pushing, folding and turning for at least 15 minutes, adding flour to the work surface 1/4 cup at a time, until the dough is smooth and elastic. Once all of the flour has been added, if the dough is still sticky, don't rush to add more flour until you have kneaded for at least 12 minutes. If the dough is still sticky, add another 1/4 cup of flour and continue to work at it.

The dough should be elegant and resilient, and spring back when poked or pulled. Form it into a ball, clean out the mixing bowl, grease it with butter or margarine (not oil), and put the dough into the bowl. Coat it with butter and cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a damp dish towel. Set the bowl in a spot where the temperature averages 75-80?F, and let the dough rise until doubled in bulk, about 2 hours.

The dough rests:
Punch down the dough, shape it into a ball again, return it to the bowl, cover and let it sit for 30 minutes. This gives the gluten and chance to relax and makes it easier to form the loaves.

Forming the loaves:
Punch down the dough again, remove it from the bowl and cut it in two with a scraper or a knife; don't tear it apart. Flatten each piece with your hand; then, on a lightly buttered surface, rotate the dough with cupped hands, tucking under the sides to form a smooth ball. Turn the ball upside down and pinch any creases in the bottom. Turn the ball right side up and rotate some more.

Dust a baking sheet with flour or cornmeal and place the loaves on it, about 3" apart; or lightly flour two bowls or woven baskets, about 8" diameter, and put in the loaves upside down. Cover with a damp towel and set aside to rise for 1-1/2 hours, until the loaves have increased in size by about 50%.

Preheat the oven to 450?F.

Baking the loaves
If the loaves are in baskets, invert them gently onto a floured baking sheet about 2" apart. With a sharp knife, make a pattern of several shallow slashes on each loaf. This will keep the loaf from bursting once it begins to expand in the oven.

Put the loaves into the oven on the center rack, with no other racks above it. They must not be too close to each other or to the oven sides or door, or they will stick to each other or to the hot metal. Spray a fine mist of water over the tops of the loaves several times, then close the oven door. After a few minutes, briefly spray the loaves again. After a few more minutes, do it again. This spraying makes the crust thick and chewy. Turn down the oven heat to 400?F. Bake the loaves for another 20-25 minutes, until the crusts have turned dark gold.

Remove the loaves from the oven, turn them upside down (use a potholder), and thump them on the bottom. If the sound is like knocking on a door, keep them out for good. Let the loaves cool on a rack for at least 30 minutes; during that time tiny cracks will blossom on the crust and their texture will stabilize.

Break the bread open with your hands, or slice with a sharp serrated knife. Serve with plenty of fresh butter.